Hueco Tanks State Park & Historic Site

The Manling and I agree – Hueco Tanks has the best entrance photo opp of all of the parks we have seen, thus far. And this is technically before you even enter the state park proper! Once you enter, it’s a whole different level of awesome at Hueco Tanks State Park & Historic Site! But I’m getting ahead of myself in my enthusiasm to share our experience. Forgive me.

First stop once you enter the park is obviously the HQ to register your vehicle with the Park Staff at which time you will learn that there is a mandatory video for all park visitors before you can explore the park. Let me silence your groans by saying, it is a very engaging video. Super informative and even if you could skip it, I wouldn’t recommend that route because we learned so much in such a short period of time because of that mandatory video. Like, how to pronounce Hueco Tanks. What Hueco Tanks are. The history of the pictographs and graffiti in the park, and so on.

HTSP&HS is all about two things: history, and rock climbing. We were eager to start both, so once the educational video was done, we headed toward the big attraction – the boulders. You see, HTSP&HS isn’t a mountain. There are plenty of those. One of the things that you immediately notice about HTSP&HS as you drive toward it is that it looks like a collection of rocks, all stacked as if the Jolly Green Giant had been collecting them and was called away suddenly, leaving them in a giant pile. And as such, they beg to be explored!

Most of the trails are in full West Texas sun, which is abominably hot in July. The few shaded portions like this one are Godsends.
The paths are also well marked and maintained, which is good because there is no off-path exploration allowed.

There were different sites that skirted the North “Mountain” at ground level, which was the only portion of the park visitors were allowed to access without a guide, and we visited just about all of them. Unfortunately, we didn’t notice much more than graffiti. Definitely nothing discernible as original cave paintings to our untrained eyes. After looking for over an hour, we reluctantly gave up the search for these historical leavings in the searing heat of mid-afternoon. Deciding then would be the perfect time to climb rocks that had been baking in the early afternoon sun, we headed up the North “Mountain” for some bouldering fun.

Use the chain railing provided in the steeper parts. Losing your footing on the boulders would ruin your day. I know because I didn’t see them until our descent.
The Manling graciously gave me some “privacy” to compose my “feels” by looking in the opposite direction when I began to groan about every ache and pain my geriatric body was experiencing up the boulders. The sight of those cooler temps rolling our way did a lot to wash away my angst.

Two things happened on our ascent: 1) I had a mini-meltdown because it was way harder than it looked to climb those boulders, especially not having seen the handy-dandy rails to aid said climb of the steeper sections, and I was just trying to keep up with The Manling (who is in the prime of his youth) while I was carrying an umbrella to serve as both a piece of portable shade and an anti-snake device and, of course, my phone so that I could photo-document our experience; and 2) a glorious summer thunderstorm began brewing just to the west of us (see photo above) which provided the exact amount of cooler temps and refreshing breezes needed to galvanize me for the remainder of the climb. Seriously, it was just what the doctor ordered, those winds.

Eventually we made it to the top, which reminded me of that little bit of oasis from the end of the movie HOLES. We explored and enjoyed the wind and cooler temps it brought with it before we headed back down the boulders, this time with the aid of the blessed chain rails.

We headed back to the Interpretive Center to make sure we’d explored all we were going to explore on their humongous 3D terrain map thing since we still hadn’t spotted the famed cave paintings, when we met Charlie the Intern who took pity on our fruitless searching and ended up treating us to an impromptu personal tour behind the Interpretive Center.

I spy time! Even with Charlie the Intern pointing it out, do you see anything? We didn’t either.

I confess, we still saw nothing until Charlie the Intern pointed them out to us. Some of them were so light as to be barely discernible, but Charlie the Intern had a great $20 app on his phone that changed the resolution of photos and once he took a photo and manipulated it so that we knew what we were looking for, it felt like one of those Magic Eye stereogram moments that were all the rage in the 90’s. We finally saw them!

Make sure to climb up the overhang to the right in order to see the pictographs further in the back like The Manling did with Charlie the Intern.

After Charlie the Intern schooled us on what we were looking for, we retraced our steps to Site 17 and all that we had discounted earlier as just graffiti (which has been a problem in the park), became clearer to us. (Essentially, it boils down to this – There are the original cave paintings done many, many years ago. Then there are “engravings” that some disgruntled cowboys did in the last century on top of some of them. And there are also places that have been graffitied in more recent years. You can read more on the park’s History page.)

The off-white lines that look like a rib cage? That is the original cave painting. The name and date is the engraving done into the rock on top of the originals by a disgruntled Francisco, according to my understanding. Tsk, tsk, Francisco. You’re better than that.
While fascinating to see the names and dates, those are (again) meant to deface the original cave paintings by cowboys with attitude.
Look carefully. That is a cave painting, though honestly I have no idea of what. A snake maybe? A braid of gray hair?
This one I like. It’s a snake. Well, I don’t like snakes, but I like that I can see this one and discern what it is.
Close up of the HORSE cave painting that Mr. Wayland defaced in 1884. Bad form, MF.

Why We Love Hueco Tanks State Park

  1. History. I’m a sucker for some history and Hueco Tanks has it in spades. Start in the Interpretive Center so you understand the history of the place before setting out for some first-hand experiences with yesteryear. Be patient. It may take a little longer to find yesteryear, but that makes the finding of it all the sweeter.
  2. Rock Climbing/Bouldering. Yes, please! We had an amazing time bouldering the North “Mountain” on our visit. Definitely would be difficult for those with physical limitations (as in, I honestly can’t fathom how it would be accomplished) and personally, I would be a little hesitant to take kids up to the oasis because of the steep parts of the climb.
  3. Staff. The Park Staff from the HQ to the Interpretive Center to Charlie the Intern were all experts in making our visit phenomenal.
  4. Opportunity. While the North “Mountain” is accessible for self-guided tours, the East & West “Mountains” are accessible for those with guides. The guides at the time of our visit charged a very nominal fee per person and there is a link on the website for scheduling those in advance. Likewise, you can boulder til the cows come home on the North “Mountain,” but to rock climb you need the help of professionals, which the website also hooks you up with. Check out both of those opportunities here.

Must Do’s

  • Mandatory Video. Hello? It’s mandatory, so obviously you must do it. But it’s totally worth a few minutes of your time. Trust me.
  • Boulder. Be smart and use the chain rails in the steep areas. They are there. Find them and use them. I could have avoided my mini-meltdown had I done that. These rocks provide some excellent bouldering opportunities!
  • Explore. Make sure you spend time at Site 17 as well as the cave behind the Interpretive Center. Climb the ledge. Sit a spell. Take in the history you’re witnessing. See if you can discern a story or theme. It’s historically awesome!
  • Hike. The trails are basically flat, short walks. They are wide, well-marked, and easily traveled. But take an umbrella for shade because it gets hot as Hades in the full sun.

We’d love to hear about your experiences at Hueco Tanks State Park & Historic Site! Please share your experiences at this rockin’ State Park in the comments.

*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.

Davis Mountains State Park

We included Davis Mountains State Park on our trip to West Texas in July 2018 for the glorious fact that the nighttime temps during the summer months dip into the lower 60’s and the daytime highs are only in the 90’s, which is completely hospitable weather for tent camping in Texas during the summer!

This spot reminded me of Bonanza for some reason.
A scenic overlook en route to the McDonald Observatory a few miles away from DMSP.

Heading into the Davis Mountains on the quaint, two-lane SH-17 is nothing short of giddy bliss, dear reader. Mile upon mile of twisty, turny roads through mountain passes as you gently ascend and descend, climbing steadily higher toward more hospitable temps and ever-increasing scenic views that comprise the lovely – nay, awesome! – beauty that is the Davis Mountains. If one can form an emotional attachment to a location akin to love at first sight, then The Manling and I had that in spades as we drove through the Davis Mountains to the State Park that would be our home for the next 24 glorious hours.

We entered the HQ completely enraptured! I think I caught a glimpse of big red hearts in The Manling’s eyes as he registered us with the Park Staff and we secured a primo campsite right next to the creek (site 81 – secluded, shaded, mountain views, mere feet from the {dry} creek bed). Summer love happens fast, my friends, and we were head over heels before we’d even left the HQ.

After pitching our tents – and allow me to detour here to boast that Mama pitched her very own tent. For the first time. In her life. And set up her own cot. So, I was feeling pretty high on life as we sat on our camping chairs in the cool shade of our awesome camp site, sipping our refreshing H2O in full view of my colossal achievements and feasting on the gorgeous Davis Mountains scenery –

The Maning and I kicked back to discuss the array of wildlife that called the Davis Mountains home, during which I attempted to act all cool about the possibility of seeing snakes, mountain lions, and javalina.

– for a while before heading up the Scenic Drive in the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside) to enjoy the various overlooks. We were eager to explore and gain a bird’s eye view of this majestic place we got to {temporarily} call home. By the time we were at the last overlook (where Scenic Drive dead ends at the park’s boundary), we heard the faint, but very distinct sound of a bugle playing a familiar tune. Intrigued, we decided to explore the tiny town that we saw at the foot of the peak. After all, we seldom have down time on our Texans Travel road trips to explore past the boundaries of the State Parks and on this particular trip, we did!

We explored much of Fort Davis on foot while we geocached the laid back, drive-through town, stopping at one place in particular –

This thrift store off the main road in town benefitted the same rescue agency that brought homeless dogs to the state park for a weekly hike.

– because another draw for us to DMSP was their “Hike with a Homeless Dog” the following morning. Dog lovers that we are, this activity listed on the park’s event page was irresistible to us.

Another stop we made was to this place, reputed among the locals as having the best salad bar, burgers, floats, and the like in the area.

Yes, we ate in a drugstore. And loved every minute of it!

Tummies nicely satisfied, we sat outside on the bench a spell to take in the irresistible charm of this precious small town, an idyllic setting for the next great American novel, before heading back home in time to catch the sun set in the bewitching Davis Mountains. (Ahhhh, that has such a nice ring to it, home in the Davis Mountains.)

On our first exploration of the peaks within the park, we discovered some rock sculptures lovingly left for our enjoyment by previous visitors. We are intrigued by these 3D art installations because on our trips to Llano, Texas, the month before, we discovered dozens and dozens of these in the city park. No explanations. Just the sculptures all over the place.

The two little beauties that greeted us on the first of many trips up to the first Scenic Overlook.

When we returned to the first Scenic Overlook a few hours later, prepped for a spectacular sunset, we discovered that something had demolished the sculptures in a “Leave No Trace” thoroughness that was a tad on the disheartening side. With nothing but time on our hands until the Big Show, we decided to make one of our own. I collected rocks of all sizes and shapes while The Manling got to work on our sculpture. Our labor of love provided interest to fellow park-goers as they trekked to the overlook to join us for sunset, some stopping to take photos of our masterpiece. It was all very gratifying. Before we knew it, it was time for the Big Show.

The sunset was so spectacular that we decided to catch it’s debut the next morning from a different spot, one perched atop the cool CCC structure that is designated on the Park Map as the middle overlook on Scenic Drive.

The Tiny Toyota Tardis enjoyed the view, too.

Afterward, we {reluctantly} broke camp – props to this Mom who broke down her own tent and cot for the first time, in the history of ever – ate a simple breakfast of trail bars with caffeinated peach tea, and then headed over to the Interpretive Center for the pièce de résistance – our much anticipated Hike with a Homeless Dog, a cooperative event offered at DMSP with Grand Companions in Fort Davis, a no-kill animal shelter all about giving dogs who are down on their luck second chances.

While we liked the hike with the pooches immensely, we loved the interaction with DMSP Interpreter, Ty, and the lovely intern, Erica. Not only did they share a wealth of information on an area that had already quickly captured our hearts, they shared some of themselves as I inadvertently grilled them on the life choices that led to their career decisions to work within the Texas State Parks. (You’re welcome, Manling.)

These two. We loved getting to know you, Ty and Erica. (FYI, they let us know they are not a couple.)

Why We ABSOLUTELY Love Davis Mountains State Park

  1. Mountains. So stinkin’ pretty!! I loved every square inch that I saw. This place may be in my retirement future. Fingers crossed.
  2. Hospitable Temps. Y’all, they are so cute in the Davis Mountains with their heat advisories because it’s in the 90’s. The 90’s! On our way home, we saw several signs that read 112 and 113. Just sayin’. And in the lower 60’s at night. The Davis Mountains make tent camping a possibility in Texas during the summer!
  3. Hiking. Trails up and down and all around the mountain peaks. Plus, the park will throw in some homeless dogs for you to share the experience with! I call that #winning.
  4. Camping. Did I mention the hospitable temps? The Manling and I actually got COLD during the night. In Texas. During July. This is a phenomenon not to be missed. Get yourself there asap.
  5. Staff. Ty and Erica were a wealth of information on careers in the Texas State Park, which I think would suit The Manling to a T. Additionally, Ty happens to be the guy that started the Ambassador Program geared toward connecting The Manling’s age demographic to parks all around the great state of Texas. Love!
  6. Sunrise/Sunset. These are not-to-be-missed moments in DMSP. Get yourself up to the peaks for both. You won’t miss the sleep once the Big Shows start. I promise.

Must Do’s

  • Camp. In addition to getting down into the 60’s overnight, we had a few unforgettable critters visit our campsite during the night – a fox hung around The Manling’s tent; we had quite a few skunks walking around our campsite during the night (which sounded like they walked on 2 feet, interestingly enough!); flashlights flashed their lights all night long (which I later learned belonged to campers hoping for a glimpse of a king snake because they come out at night).
  • Sunrise/Sunset. This is mandatory. No excuses.
  • Fort Davis Drugstore. Get the salad bar. Grab a burger. Top it off with a shake. This place is precious.
  • Park Activity. Check out the Events Page like we did and join the Park Staff on an unforgettable adventure!

We’d love to hear about your experiences at Davis Mountains State Park! Please share your thoughts on this love-at-first-sight State Park in the comments.

*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.

Dinosaur Valley State Park

The Reader at the entrance to her park

Dinosaur Valley State Park happens to be The Readers absolute favorite Texas State Park, so our excitement when she said she could join us on our Independence Day visit in 2018 was undeniable. We were going to have a real, live S.M.E. (subject matter expert) with us for the day, enlivening our experience as she shared her stories, favorite trails, and contagious enthusiasm for what clearly is her beloved park. And for good reason! Where else can you meander down a river laden with bona fide dinosaur tracks, scale rocky precipices for a bird’s eye view of the park, pet a baby goat that you thought was a deer, swim in something as creepy sounding at the Blue Hole, geocache in an area that looks plopped out of The Lord of the Rings, and basically have a chill day with the ones you love even though it’s hot as Hades?

Walking to the Ballroom Site of the Paluxy River
So many tracks! They are everywhere!
We waded down most of the Paluxy River, enjoying the cool water on this hot day.
The Manling took a dip near the Blue Hole.
The sweet little thing even lives inside the people house with her owner.
Not exactly what we’d recommend for rock climbing.
Goofy Shenanigans 101
Our Awesome Aussie!
Great Dad moment
The drier portion of the Paluxy had fewer people, but there were still dinosaur tracks to find.
Beautiful. Quiet. Peaceful.
This is near where we excited the river to walk through the central part of the park back to our car. I loved the shade and the view and the solitude of the moment on a rather hectic holiday.
Cannot get enough of these! It’s something straight out of Jurassic World at DVSP!
Hey, buddy. Is anyone else remembering that scene in Jurassic World? (insert teary-eyed emogee.)
The caches were great finds in absolutely gorgeous areas of canopied trees with shade and beautiful birdsong.

Why We Love Dinosaur Valley State Park

  1. Dinosaurs. This is the unmistakable draw of the place. You can actually touch bona fide dino footprints. You can compare foot sizes. The Ballroom Site has hundreds of footprints going in all directions. There are two resident dinosaurs that are ready to selfie with you when you visit, as well, so make sure to stop by and say hello.
  2. Water. The Paluxy River was important to our Jurassic friends in the past and it remains an important feature to us today. Take a dip. Wade. Meander among the dinosaur tracks. Enjoy the Blue Hole. Float in a tube. Live in the moment.
  3. Trails. With over 20 miles of trails, there’s bound to be one perfect for you to try. We enjoyed the Limestone Ledge Trail and the Overlook Trail on this visit because of the spectacular views of the surrounding area.
  4. Geocaching. The River portion of the park and the interior portion of the park seem like two completely different places. Go geocaching and explore more than just the river. It’s a great way to take in the beauty of this amazing Texas State Park.

Must Do’s

  • Scenic Overlook. Make sure you have shoes with good, grippy soles because it gets steep in places, then do yourself a favor and enjoy this hike. The payoff at the top is worth it!
  • Paluxy River. A lot (if not all?) of the tracks are in the river, so go down in there and enjoy!
  • Geocache. This is simply the best way to explore, in my opinion. You will go places you would not have otherwise explored and leave with a sense of accomplishment, as well. Win-win.
  • Dinos. Visit the tracks. Visit the residents. Dinos aplenty at Dinosaur Valley State Park. Up the ante and watch Jurassic Park before going. I guarantee it will heighten your experience at the park!

 

We’d love to hear about your experiences at Dinosaur Valley State Park! Please share your thoughts on this prehistoric piece of paradise in the comments.

*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.

Lake Brownwood State Park

Our trip to Lake Brownwood State Park could be considered a series of unfortunate events at first glance. The fact that we left our house at 5:30am would be the first of those unfortunate events to 3/4 of the population of Smiths living in our home in North Texas. Fortunately, The Reader is a morning person and once we picked her up at 6:15am, there was a second cheerful person on board the S.S.Suburban bound for Lake Brownwood State Park. We chatted. I read a humorous chapter from Of Mess and Moxie to her. She laughed at my observations. She showed me adorable pics of her furr babies. I coveted her new iPhone. Just a delightful passing of time as we headed west in the wee hours of the morn.

And then we stopped for gas and a bio break. No biggie, except this time while The Man was filling the behemoth tank of our land yacht, he noticed this, which could rightly be considered the second in our series of unfortunate events –

We just didn’t think the “wires” of our inner tire should be showing. And since we’d had the tires checked the day before at a reputable tire place, we were scratching our heads as to how this could have happened.

Sigh.

Not only was the Suburban filled with coolers (plural), sporting equipment, fishing gear, 5 humans, and Our Awesome Aussie, the spare tire was also in the back instead of in it’s rightful place under the vehicle thanks to a years ago off-roading adventure gone awry. Hence the sigh. We were going to have to offload three bikes so that we could unload the heavy coolers and finagle around our miscellaneous sporting equipment in order to get the good spare tire out and onto the truck. And by we, I mean The Man and The Manling because the rest of us are ladies (including our Awesome Aussie) and the ladies promptly took off for a photo shoot with the cool sculptures and such that make roadside gas stations more than just pit stops.

Thirty minutes saw us back on the road – which I count as a miracle because the jack that the giant Suburban had looked like it would have had trouble lifting the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside), so kudos to the makers of that priceless piece of engineering!  About an hour later, we reached our destination without further incident.

After taking our group selfie at the entrance –

In what the lady-folk would consider the third unfortunate event, Kinder Frau pointed out the leavings of a snake’s skin – right at our feet. {Just. Breathe.}

– we headed straight for the HQ to register our vehicle and get the lay of the land from the excellent Park Staff. Which is when I noticed the flyers stacked on the counter inviting everyone for a volleyball game at 10:30am and a kickball game at 1pm. You see, I had called earlier in the week to talk to the Park Staff about a couple of items I’d noticed on their website – volleyball courts and a softball field – that were free for use by park visitors. I asked if they could invite other visitors to join us for volleyball and kickball the day we would be there and they enthusiastically replied, “Absolutely! We are all about community.” That same day, I saw an announcement posted on their social media! Upon arrival at the park, we saw the flyers sitting right on the counter where everyone checked into the park! Major props to the LBSP Staff for living their motto!

Since it was about 10:15am, we headed straight for the volleyball court by the swim beach. We played a hilarious hybrid game of volleyball & nukem that attracted a fair amount of odd looks from the few people that walked by and maybe weren’t living their best lives like The Smiths clearly were. Not everyone can live our level of cool in the heat of summer.

And then things got real – someone joined us!!! The social media blitz combined with the old school flyers landed us an actual human being willing to join our crazy shenanigans! And he was in full length denim pants, people…owning the court! Let’s take a moment to give proper kudos to Caleb for going with the flow, laughing, and pretty much #winning at that carpe diem thing!

Our new bestie Caleb, The Man, and The Manling in about 1000 degree weather
This shot makes us look like we know what we’re doing. The Reader took video that proved that we were more of a spectacle than spectacular. But we had fun, so we’re cool with that.
Hot and tired. And also the self-proclaimed winners.

We told Caleb about our upcoming kickball game, invited him to join us at 1pm at the field for more fun, and then headed back to the truck for some lakeside eating in the comfort our air conditioned Suburban. Nothing spectacular to report except the lake views, which are gorgeous and complete the ambiance when you are eating in your air conditioned vehicle lakeside.

Once we were fed and cooled, some of us felt energized enough to tackle the Nopales Ridge Trail atop our bikes, so we reparked the Suburban at the trailhead (which is off the main park road on the right, just past the split). We left The Reader and Kinder Frau to read, relax, and chill in the Suburban with Our Awesome Aussie while The Man, The Manling, and I took to the trail.

It started simply enough, lots of flat earth shaded by pretty trees and serenaded by the call of locusts and birds. Then we got to the portion that the Park Staff forewarned might be “challenging.” I’d like to say we kicked the trail’s butt, but honestly? We had to get off and walk portions of it because the rocks were so big and I was on my city hybrid bike with the teeny tires which I was morbidly afraid would go POP! rendering me a walker for the remainder of the trail while the midday sun slowly melted me. So we experienced about a fifth of the trail on foot, which inherently held it’s own challenges to me because of the cactus and the incredibly rocky, narrow path on the “challenging” portion of the trail and my recurrent fear of snakes, which I was assured lived in the park when we were registering our vehicle earlier in the day, but I had been less afraid of encountering on the trail when I was enjoying it atop my bike at a decent clip. Eventually we made it back to the wider, more earthy trail and we were riding the bikes once more, enjoying the wind in our faces as we blazed through the rest of the trail and back to the Suburban. We had so much fun overall, I suggested that The Man and The Manling do it again sans me and my sissy bike after our kickball game, an idea that held real appeal to my menfolk.

As we were storing gear, loading up the bikes, and downing H2O, The Reader kindly let us know that a rather alarming engine-related message appeared on the dashboard while we were gone. Long story short, without thinking we did a big no-no (our fourth unfortunate event of the day, for those that are counting) and this happened –

We quickly emptied water bottles into our coolant reservoir and headed slowly to the sports field for kickball at which exactly no one joined us, which was not a mystery because it was

but that didn’t stop The Smiths from playing the most ridiculous game of four-way kickball ever invented! The Reader served as our permanent pitcher while the rest of us constituted one-man teams and Our Awesome Aussie jogged around the field not sure who she was rooting for and far more preoccupied with the abundance of new olfactory sensations to care anyway.

We were all winners after our epic 23-minute, four-way, individual kickball game, but I might have had more of a reason to smile than the others when it ended. Just sayin’.

Game over, we re-focused our attention on the fourth in our series of unfortunate events. We oh-so-cautiously drove to the boat launch area with hopes that we could possibly find a boat owner with engine coolant to spare. While The Man and I searched and read manuals and refilled water bottles to add to the car’s reservoir, the kids treated Our Awesome Aussie to a much-appreciated swim because Our Awesome Aussie is practically ferrel when it comes to the likes of water and wallowing and she was about to melt from the heat trapped in her beautiful blue merle coat.

Once we found a generous boater with coolant to spare, the Suburban seemed right as rain again (Thank you, Jesus!). We headed back to the Nopales Ridge Trail to drop the guys off to re-do the loop on their manly bikes with their ginormous tires while the gals explored the rest of LBSP via Suburban.

I want to post the cry-laughing emogee, but that’s not an option.
The Manling might have petered out during their second take of the “challenging” mountain bike trail and left The Man outside to load the bikes back onto the Suburban.

The second, more testosterone-filled mountain bike ride, both The Man and The Manling crashed (fifth in our series of unfortunate events) at the very spot we previously commented seemed way too narrow for handle bars to fit through. Apparently, we were right. We hit the road shortly after the guys’ smashing second mountain bike ride and thusly brought our day-long series of unfortunate events to a surprisingly happy conclusion.

Why We Love Lake Brownwood State Park

  1. Water. Summer + Texas + Water = Smiles
  2. Mountain Biking. This. Was. Awesome. It’s the first time in years we’ve taken the bikes to a State Park for some off-roading and we were feelin’ every minute of it! Just make sure you have thick mountain bike tires. You’ll need ’em.
  3. CCC. LBSP has the most CCC structures of any of the Texas State Parks. You have to take a moment to enjoy their historical beauty. The Trails Map points many out to you, along with a news bite of information. You can find out more info on the park’s History page.
  4. Athletic. I love, love, LOVE that LBSP encourages you in outdoor pursuits. Bring your thick-tired mountain bike and ride the Posales Ridge Trail. Explore the beautiful Lakeside Trail on foot. Borrow a volleyball and get a game going at one of the two volleyball courts. Check out all the equipment you’ll need to enjoy America’s favorite past time at the HQ. Go for a swim in the refreshing waters of Lake Brownwood. Like Nike would say, Just Do It.

Must Do’s

  • Play. Listen up. The HQ has loaner equipment so that you can play til your heart’s content, my friend! For FREE. Take them up on it and hae some old school fun playing with some peeps – old, and new!
  • Explore. There are around 6 miles of trails you can hike, run, or bike. Explore them! (Note: If you explore by bike, bring some thick tires. These trails aren’t made with sissy city tires in mind.)
  • Fish. There is a super cool bridge around the boat launches that has a pier behind it where we saw three generations of fisher people catching crappie while we were there in the heat of the day. Give it a try.
  • Swim. We saw people enjoying the water the whole time we were there. LBSP has a GREAT beach area, which is exactly what the doctor orders when it’s 103 out there.
  • Grand Stairway. Short, sweet climb to a precious little shaded sitting area with scenic views of the lake. The Man and I enjoyed some alone time up there on our visit, but it would be the perfect spot for a small family picnic.

We’d love to hear about your experiences at Lake Brownwood State Park! Please share your thoughts on this eventful park in the comments.

*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.

 

 

 

Lake Tawakoni State Park

Beloved Lake Tawakoni State Park,

We have fished you, biked you, hiked you, swum you, camped you, and deeply loved you since we first discovered you and the Texas State Parks system.

Our affection for your tall trees, sandy beaches, meandering trails, and picturesque shoreline fishing spots has only grown deeper as the kids have grown taller. You provided the perfect backdrop to some of our favorite memories like the first camp out The Manling planned all by himself with his little Scout friends…

Circa 2014, which was a lifetime ago because that is how time passes when you’re in the Wonder Years. The boys had a camp site all to themselves while Kinder Frau and I camped separately one spot over. Good times.

…and the many hours of playing fetch with Elanor (R.I.P., most faithful canine companion) and Rosie…

Awww, I just noticed wee Kinder Frau in the background swimming.

…and the group bike rides on your wide paths that left us feeling a deep sense of satisfaction and accomplishment…

…and the times spent swimming in your depths because it was a thousand degrees that summer…

…and the time of togetherness in the tent when Kinder Frau and I read aloud from Pride & Prejudice during that summer rain shower…

…and the pages upon pages of lakeside reading I have enjoyed while the minions fished and frolicked in your nearby waters…

…and the time the minions and I ran your trails and I inadvertently just missed stepping on that skinny green snake because we were living our best life instead of fretting over slithery adversaries…

…and the list goes on and on and on.

In late June 2018, we added another priceless memory into our shared history together, Lake Tawakoni State Park: scenic backdrop for a photo shoot. After all, Kinder Frau has a public to please nowadays.

While The Man and The Manling got their shoreline fishing on…

…I was Kinder Frau’s to command for a couple of hours during an on-location photo shoot within your breathtaking boundaries.

Exploring your paths and shores and even your roadways was so much fun as the two of us simultaneously walked down memory lane, one location at a time.

Lake Tawakoni State Park, you’re our soulmate. You complete our family like no other Texas State Park. You’re always up for a visit from us, and you have never failed to deliver an awesome adventure for our family. For that, we will always love you.

Thanks for the memories, LTSP.  –The Smiths

Why We Love Lake Tawakoni State Park

  1. Fishing. I’m pretty sure we’ve caught every single time we’ve dropped a line from the shores of LTSP. The water levels fluctuate, but the fishing is always pretty great on the lake. Or try your luck at the picturesque Pair-O-Trees Pond on the right, just past the HQ.
  2. Sandy Beaches. In North Texas, there’s no pretending that we’ve got this beach thing down. It’s an exasperatingly long car ride to the Gulf from our humble abodes. Which is why when we find inviting sandy beaches, we are all in. LTSP has the prettiest light sand beaches. Grab your camping chair, a good book, and go find yourself a private piece of beach-y paradise, my friend. LTSP’s got you covered.
  3. Meandering Trails. The trails are wide, well-kept, mostly shaded and the Spring Point Trails (on the east side of the park) are delightful to enjoy at a casual pace. Life is fast-paced. Take your time and meander down one of LTSP’s almost 5 miles of trail.
  4. Camping. LTSP has really great camp sites. They are mostly private with excellent shade. We have enjoyed an excellent array of flighty friends visiting us while we camped and their birdsong is the absolute best way to wake up any day of the week.
  5. Tall Trees. I hail from Alabama, whose motto is “Alabama the Beautiful.” Mama loves her tall trees and LTSP has some really tall beauties which are a feast for the eyes and minister to the body as they shade you from the Texas summer heat. They will be your constant companion no matter where you explore in the park. Love them. Appreciate them. They are the best.
  6. Biking. The three loops off of the Farkleberry Trail are excellent for biking. They are shaded by the aforementioned tall trees, wide, twisty-turny, and well-kept so that your adventure will end up a positive one. The Manling and Kinder Frau have ridden those trails since they learned to ride bikes, so in our opinion, they make for great family rides.
  7. Photo Ops. Sure, we’ve always taken pics on our visits to LTSP. But they’ve always been to preserve our family memories. After our last visit, we’ve seen the park in a whole new light! Seize the Golden Hour at LTSP and capture some breathtaking family photos in this beautiful landscape that LTSP has to offer.

Must Do’s

  • Fish. Pair-O-Trees Pond or shoreline fishing? You can’t miss. You’re welcome.
  • Camp. Like I said, the camping spots all seem primo at LTSP, but personally, we love the White Deer Reach Camping Loop, specifically sites #17-21. The sites on the outside seem the most private and the sites on the inside of the loop are big.
  • Explore. Almost 5 miles of trail are doable in one visit! Explore them all, or choose a shorter adventure. Run the trails. Or bike. Or meander. Just get out there and explore the beauty LTSP’s trails has to offer.
  • Play. Do something fun. Mountain bike. Hike. Fish. Meander down the shoreline. Have a photo shoot. Play fetch in the water with your dog. Swim. Do something fun! Its good for you.
  • Relax. Look, you are busy. Life is busy. You cannot avoid the stressures of daily life. But you can escape them for a day…or extended weekend. LTSP is the perfect place to de-stress, relax, and recenter. Do yourself a solid and let LTSP help you ease your angst.

We’d love to hear about your experiences at Lake Tawakoni State Park! Please share your thoughts on the Smith Family’s State Park Soulmate in the comments.

*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.

McKinney Falls State Park

We first discovered McKinney Falls State Park several summers ago when The Man and I took The Manling and Kinder Frau on a “Tour of Texas Waterholes.” It held fond memories for us, especially the wet trek down Williamson Creek while holding an impromptu rock skipping contest. We swam in the Lower Falls, and the guys fished a bit that visit, but we didn’t explore the park properly that first trip because we were on a schedule and had to get to the next waterhole.

Pay attention to this photo out of yesteryear. It will be important later during the test-taking portion of this post.
The water felt so good on that hot, hot Texas summer day. Soon we were skipping rocks and talking big and having a grand ole time until we decided to change into our swimsuits and submerge ourselves in the Lower Falls.

The second time we visited MFSP was in mid-June 2018. The weather was threatening a pretty big thunderstorm, so we weren’t sure exactly how long we’d have to explore the park before we had to take shelter. As we arrived, people were exiting because of the aforementioned thunderstorms headed our way. Exactly like Superheroes, we headed the opposite direction from the fleeing masses. Toward the danger. Into the unknown.

Okay, in reality, some people left and they may have just been tired. I can’t know everything. What I do know is that when we took this entry selfie –

Test-taking portion of the post. Find ten things that are different in this entry photo than the one out of yesteryear. (Answer at the bottom, but don’t cheat and scroll down without first really trying. That’s no way to go about life.)

– the sky behind us was blue and the sky in front of us looked pretty scary. Like, I-think-we-might-be-in-Kansas kind of scary. But we headed in anyway because, honestly, we’d bothered to drive all this way and it was not going to be for nothing. Because we’d already done some of the things in this park previously and because it was Father’s Day Weekend and The Man loves to hike, we focused primarily on hiking. Well, that and fishing because The Manling had just turned the big 1-8 and life is colorless for him unless he can drop a line in the water.

After constructing a good attack pattern with the Park Staff in the HQ (and buying a cute window sticker for the Tiny Toyota Tardis – because the Yaris in bigger on the inside), we pointed the Jeep toward the Lower Falls. Even though the park sometimes has to close due to capacity, we found a great parking spot recently vacated by a park evacuee. We headed on foot to the rock flats. We hunted for the famed “ruts” in the rock caused by wagon wheels in the days of the Old West. We stared at the people swimming in the Lower Falls. And then we began hiking the pleasant (and mostly shaded) Rock Shelter Interpretive Trail.

The vast rock flats aren’t far from the parking area and lie between that and the water of the Lower Falls. Notice the blue skies on the left, and the heavy dark clouds on the right.
We “think” this is the Rock Shelter (#4 on the Trails Map), but it was a neat spot overlooking the water even if it wasn’t.
Heading toward the Rock Shelter Interpretive Trail from the rock flats for a quickie hike.
A stop along the Rock Shelter Interpretive Trail to enjoy the view of the creek below.
A view of the creek they are enjoying in the above pic.
The Manling, longing for his rod & reel.
I love this pic because it’s not even staged! The Manling took the narrower path that followed the creek more closely while The Man led his ladies down the wider path.
At this point, I haven’t the faintest idea where we are. The trail seemed to close ahead, so we turned back after admiring the view in the next photo.
We think that’s a beaver’s dam.

We divided and conquered after that first hike. Kinder Frau and I opted for the air conditioned Jeep while The Man and The Manling went fishing. This translated into us rating all the campsites (see below under Must Do’s) as we explored every single road in the park from the comfort of our car while the guys headed back to the Lower Falls area to do their thing.

When we met back up, we decided to explore the other side of Lower Falls in search of both the Gristmill (#9 on the Trails Map) and the McKinney Homestead (#8 on the Trails Map, and for which the park is named). Both were packed with lush foliage, and cool breezes because of the thunderstorm rolling into the area.

This was a pretty, green, well-maintained path through tall trees with lush undergrowth – and plenty of places for snakes to hide. But I was motivated. I’m a sucker for the historical stuff.
The Man admitted that once the trail narrowed this much with the lush greenery thick all around, he walked faster and kept well ahead so that I couldn’t easily engender his sympathies with my rapid breathing and force us to head back to safer grounds where rattlers weren’t waiting to wound us, thereby missing the focal point of our hike – the McKinney Homestead. I’m so thankful for him because I loved this hike and stepping back into history at the homestead.
The remains of the McKinney homestead. Well worth the panic I paid to get there.

We enjoyed a few hours pleasantly spent rediscovering a history-rich, water-filled state park located in the state’s capital with exactly no run-ins with my arch-nemesis the rattlesnake. Or a Texas summer thunderstorm. #winning

Oh, and about the test-taking portion of the post. There isn’t one. I just thought it was cool that the three of them were almost identical to the photo from years ago…before selfies were a thing and I was always behind the camera instead of in front of it. Don’t hate me. I thought it would be funny.

Why We Love McKinney Falls State Park

  1. Water. This is an essential ingredient to enjoying any summertime activity in Texas. Wade down a creek. Swim at one of the falls. Float down the creek. Fish in the water. Trust me.
  2. Trails. The foliage even in the heat of an oppressive Texas summer is so lush and beautiful! It’s like MFSP didn’t get the memo that it’s time for everything growing to turn brown under the summer sun. It’s beautiful with lots of shade. There’s no downside to that winning combo.
  3. History. Pick up a Trails Map from the HQ. Pick a trail. Follow it, reading the bits about certain spots you pass along your walk. Read the signs. The place is rich with Texas history!

Must Do’s

  • Hike. The trails are well-maintained, marked and easily traveled. In fact, I would say the trails are more like paths than most of the hiking trails we’ve traveled at other parks. We even came across an elderly couple with their yippie dogs coming from the homestead and gristmill trails and they said it was an enjoyable walk when we asked them.
  • Swim. Both times we have visited MFSP, the water levels were low. But that didn’t keep anyone from enjoying either of the falls. I’m telling you, opportunities for wet fun in Texas in the summer is what you want and MFSP has it.
  • Camp. We were hard-pressed to find a bad camping spot. All of them were shaded and spacious and completely delightful for a weekend visit or a week-long trip. We look forward to returning and taking our own advice!
  • Explore. One of our fondest memories continues to be the time we explored Williamson Creek and had a rock-skipping contest. Bring your sense of adventure and have fun exploring the capital’s own State Park.

We’d love to hear about your experiences at McKinney Falls State Park! Please share your thoughts on this Texas State Capital gem in the comments.

*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.

Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley State Park

Captured the only blue skies that day. A summer thunderstorm was chasing us as we continued north along the Rio Grande.

Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley State Park was our third birding center on our Father’s Day weekend trip in mid-June 2018. It was over a hundred degrees that day as we skirted the Rio Grande trekking ever northward, keeping just ahead of a summer thunderstorm that doggedly pursued us from the Gulf of Mexico. We were hot and tired and a teeny bit concerned about the storm catching up to us and kind of just over birding centers and state parks and nature and driving and sweating and all the things. Our enthusiasm had evaporated with the sweat earned at the first two birding centers and now at our third and final stop on our tour of the World Birding Centers operated by the Texas Parks & Wildlife Department, we just weren’t feelin’ it.

And then we began a conversation with a Park Staffer in the HQ that changed our lives for the good. She offered this option –

I confess, I wanted to cry happy tears when we discovered the availability of this. It was June 16. Yes, the very day they began offering shuttle rides every hour! Praise be!

It was 4:25pm. The tram stop was only a couple hundred feet away. No walking. No backpacks of water. No fear of rattlesnakes preying on our calves. No heat exhaustion. Just sitting and enjoying. Yes, please!

We sat and enjoyed almost a half hour tram ride through BRGVSP while our own personal Park Staffer (OJ) gave us a V.I.P. tour! The day of our visit happened to be OJ’s two year anniversary working at the park. We asked lots of questions, which he answered in the friendliest way possible at this point in our day – from the driver’s seat of our terrific tram. Since our interests lie more with ground animals than with flying ones, he happily shared about all of the animals that call BRGVSP their home – which we loved! He stopped when we saw a threesome of armadillo and allowed us to get out and take closer photos. We saw a wild turkey, butterflies, lizards (including an endangered one!), a Texas tortoise, and a few different types of birds (of course).

Look at OJ being all cool with us. Look at our smiles. This was the best blessing, you guys. It totally won the day.

OJ also shared a little about the history of the park, including how the boundary line between Mexico and the U.S.A. was determined in the past (see photo below) and how the area used to have cacti until a flood changed all that. The park has exactly one cactus left, and OJ pointed it out (see photo below) so that we could photograph it.

We were enamored with the little armadillo family on the side of the tram road. We’ve never seen one…alive.
Pretty old school how they used to determine where the border was located, right?
The sole remaining cactus in the park? It’s at the top of that tree!
Wild Turkey, anyone?

I have no harrowing stories of close calls with nature (real, or imagined) from BRGVSP to share. There were none. It was just a thoroughly delightful time on a tram tour with our new friend OJ learning about the park he has enjoyed up-close and personal for the past couple of years.

Why We Love Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley State Park

  1. Tram. This was so much fun! When someone offers you a tram tour, take them up on it. It’s relaxing. Educational. Conversational. Breezy. You hit the highlights, basically, without exhausting yourself by hiking. Win-win.
  2. Trails. The place looked fun to explore. The tram road was wide and paved. The trails we saw from our perch in the tram looked well maintained and easily marked. If this had been our first stop, we definitely would have taken advantage of the trails.
  3. Wildlife. Armadillos. Butterflies. Birds. Lizards. There are more, but these came out to say hello to us while we rode through the park with OJ.
  4. History. It’s fascinating to hear about the past and the Park Staff are great story tellers! Make sure to ask about the flood and the border markers.
  5. Staff. We were so weary. The Park Staff completely changed our perspective on the park by their friendliness and willingness to go the extra mile in making our visit the best.
  6. Newness. This park seemed like a combo of the first two birding centers we visited – newness in the HQ area with a more historical wildness in the back part of the park.

Must Do’s

  • Tram Tour. Cannot recommend this enough! I would take it any time of year they offered it because the one-on-one interaction with the Park Staff is such an educational encounter. Take the tour first. Then figure out what you’d like to go back and explore further, perhaps by bike.
  • Bicycle Tour. The park rents bikes very affordably, which would be another excellent way to explore the park.
  • Hike. The trails are short according the park map. We would definitely want to explore them if we were ever in the area again.

 

We’d love to hear about your experiences at Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley State Park! Please share your thoughts on this Southwest Texas treasure in the comments.

*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.

Port Isabel Lighthouse State Historic Site

It’s quaint and precious and picture perfect.
All smiles. Because looking up there, that looks easy enough, right?

Is it, or isn’t it? There seemed to be some confusion as to whether or not Port Isabel Lighthouse was still an official Texas State Park at the time of our visit in June 2018, or not. The evidence pointed both directions at the same time. Whether it was, or wasn’t, an official State Park at the time of our visit (and this blog), it was listed as one of the 99 Texas State Parks, so we included it.

Nestled on less than an acre of land, surprisingly Port Isabel Lighthouse is not the smallest Texas State Park (you know, if it was one). It consists of the lighthouse proper (which is supposedly only 50 feet above the ground, but my shaking legs and fragile resolve to climb to the top reckoned it closer to 500′), and a replica of the original lighthouse keeper’s cottage (complete with an adorable white picket fence). That’s it. The cottage contains some pretty interesting information on the lighthouse, how lighthouses work, etc., but the big attraction at PILSHS is the lighthouse, so let’s get to that.

It’s small. Intimate, if you will. As such, the State Park (you know, if it is one) cannot accommodate hoards of people climbing up and down the winding, see-through stair case all at once, or perching on the narrow outside “balcony” near the top, or packing into the round “room” at the tippy top. Thankfully. Because neither could I.

I somehow managed to keep it together enough to ascend the metal stair case after The Man & Kinder Frau left The Manling and me at the bottom. Like this would be nothing but sunshine and happiness. As we climbed, trying desperately not to look through the holes in the beautifully intricate metalwork under our feet, the Manling and I provided a mini-concert of moans,  punctuated occasionally by breathy prayers of desperation that may have sounded like hyperventilation, and hugged the wall in what could be considered a semi-inappropriate way if taken out of context. In other words, this charming, unassuming lighthouse that looks super do-able from the ground somehow morphs into the Eiffel Tower on Halloween Night shortly into your ascent, so if you are wary of heights this will be a challenge. But a challenge well worth the cost of admission with beautiful 360 degree views of the surrounding area, the Gulf of Mexico and South Padre Island! Take a page out of Nike’s playbook on this one – Just Do It!

What I am not showing you is the extent to which my body is pushed against the solidity of the lighthouse with both my feet and hands. This was a super hard shot for me, but the rest of them stayed out there, walking all the way around, as I headed down the stairs.
Happy to be back on good ole terra firma.

Why We Love Port Isabel Lighthouse State Historic Site

  1. Lighthouse. There just aren’t too many of these gems left, especially in Texas along the coast. It was worth the drive to plan a trip to experience a part of our history that may not be around too much longer.
  2. Views. Beautiful!
  3. Location. It’s the tip of Texas! It’s where the Gulf of Mexico, Mexico, and Texas all converge. That’s pretty special!

Must Do’s

  • Climb. It was hard. I’ll admit it. But I am also glad that I sucked it up and faced my fear of heights because the views were spectacular.
  • Learn. The Chamber of Commerce (located in the keeper’s cottage) has a great display to learn all about lighthouses. And being on site while you’re learning about it makes a more lasting impression than just reading about it in a book.
  • Visit. If you’ve never seen what the hype about South Padre Island is, then drive across the bridge. You’re right there. We chose to go geocaching, but there is shopping galore, restaurants, a water park, learning centers, and more.

We’d love to hear about your experiences at Port Isabel Lighthouse State Historic Site! Please share your thoughts on this piece of history on the tip of Texas in the comments.

*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.