Choke Canyon consists of two branches: South Shore (day-use only) and Calliham (full-service side of the park). We planned our visit as part of a Labor Day extended weekend trip since the area is nowhere near close to where we live in North Texas. We arrived midday. In August. It was a blistering 97 degrees by the time we arrived – the kind of heat that makes the very air itself feel like it’s suffocating you. Because the weather wasn’t working in its favor, Choke Canyon State Park was a hard sell while we were there. Nevertheless, we pushed ourselves to experience a sampling of what CCSP offered and here’s what we found.
Cons: Let’s just go ahead and get them out of the way.
Heat. Hot as Hades comes to mind. Seriously. With no breeze. Stifling hot. The kind of hot that makes you keenly aware that even the environment is thirsty for water and your body is the current source of this precious commodity. But we were there in August, so that’s on us. Can’t really fault the park for the weather. Just a consideration when timing your visit.
Drought. The effects were pretty dramatic as there were concrete jetties that were clearly meant as walkways “into the water” that were a whopping 29 feet above the actual water level at the time of our visit. Everywhere you looked the land was parched. Dry. Thirsty. Brown was the predominant color of the landscape. The sound of dead vegetation crunching under your footfalls was part of the soundtrack of the day. But again, you cannot fault CCSP for natural disasters.
Pros: On to the Good Stuff!
Fishing. Apparently Choke Canyon Reservoir is great for fishing – especially if you have a boat. Catfish Marv, whom we met at the HQ, routinely takes groups out on his 24′ pontoon boat between 7am-1pm, and his latest expedition at the time of our introduction yielded a whopping 125 fish! We met a married couple at the fish cleaning station in the early afternoon of our visit that had caught 26 crappie in the span of 4 hours, also from their boat.
Bird Center. Many species of birds can be spotted at CCSP. In fact, one thing we appreciated about our visit was our songbird soundtrack. We heard the beautiful songs of birds during our entire visit. In addition, we crossed paths with a couple of roadrunners on the South Shore side of the park, our first up-close encounter with that speedy species.
Rec Hall. Tennis anyone? How about basketball? Are you more into soccer? CCSP has you covered as it has the facilities for all of these in or around the Rec Hall. Didn’t bring equipment? No problem! They have loaners you can borrow during your visit.
Shaded Parking. This is a serious consideration when the temps are soaring, yet not many Texas State Parks have much of it. CCSP has it in spades and you will appreciate it if you time your visit during the hottest months of the year like we did.
Shelters. CCSP offers screened shelters and shelters with air conditioning, a must-have in the summer in Texas. Situated on their own street within the park, these shelters look like a community of adorable Tiny Houses complete with front porches.
Insects. I think it’s worth noting that CCSP wasn’t buggy. We didn’t experience a single mosquito, which is unusual for us! In fact, the place appeared delightfully bug-free (though we know this is unrealistic).
Trails. They were wide. Well-maintained. Clearly marked. Level. Teeming with deer.
Alligators. There are signs, which is why we didn’t fish on the shore. We were told that alligators sunned in this spot, or that spot. The Manling even heard one enter the water, saw the splash, but just missed actually sighting one. The fact that they are there and that we didn’t have a dangerous close encounter is a Pro. (A Park Staffer pointed out that they have never had a visitor experience a disastrous encounter with one of their resident reptiles, and I am happy we were able to continue that streak on our visit.)
Why We Love Choke Canyon State Park
Wildlife. Amazingly, even during a drought, CCSP is home to deer, alligators, many species of birds, javelina, and many more!
Water. Summer in Texas = Water. Bring or rent a boat and enjoy a day on the Choke Canyon Reservoir. We hear the fishing is amazing! (And if you hire out Catfish Marv, tell him Texans Travel says hello!)
Must Do’s
Water. Look, with Catfish Marv willing and able, there’s no reason not to enjoy some time on the reservoir, especially with a rod in hand. Give the man a call (Capt. Marvin “Catfish Marv” Elledge at 210-365-7967).
Tiny House Community. There is no more affordable way to stay in the area than CCSP, and since they have accommodations with a/c, you can even enjoy a summer visit! Come on. You know you want to.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Choke Canyon State Parks! Please leave your comments on this resilient State Park in the comments below.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site is as unique to visit as the Lone Star State is itself! Located along the mighty Brazos River, Washington-on-the-Brazos is a historical complex that serves its visitors a heaping helping of the serene beauty of the South Texas countryside alongside a smorgasbord of opportunities that nourish both the mind and the body.
The Manling and I devoured every moment of our half-day exploration of WotBSHS in August 2018. We got our bearings at the Visitor Services Complex where Park Staffer Mary (with the most beautiful eyes!) gave us the lowdown on all of the must-see-and-do activities during our visit.
With an hour before our first tour, we heeded Mary’s advice and headed toward the Old Washington Town Site Loop Trail (say that three times fast!) and meandered down a beautifully wide path toward the Brazos River…
…catching no glimpses of it until…
…we reached the Scenic Overlook, which was kind of on the wild side. There, we read a lot of signage (see below) that gave us a pretty good overview of the importance of the site. I won’t go into detail because I hate spoilers, but suffice it to say, WotB brought it’s A-game in educational pursuits.
We left the blissful shade of the trail and the Overlook to head up this trail – once an ancient roadway – reading the signage along the way that taught us even more Texas history. There was even a tree that witnessed the events of Texas history covered at the park. Yeah, it’s that old!
We made our way back to the Visitor Services Complex just in time for a quick pit stop before we headed out on a walking tour with Adam Arnold, who has obviously found his calling as a Park Ranger at WotB, with family lines that traced all the way back to…well, someone of significance, but I cannot remember who exactly. But I remember one of our fellow visitors on the tour being duly impressed, so I followed along.
Our tour guide Adam passed out what he termed period-appropriate air conditioners like the one he was holding since it was a hundred degrees during our tour in August. Thanks for doing us a solid, man!
When our outstanding guided tour ended (TRULY a Must-Do with Adam!), we headed back to the nearby Visitor Services Complex to try our hand at the Scavenger Hunt.
For time and financial reasons, we decided to skip the Star of the Republic Museum on this visit. Instead, we headed next to the Barrington Living History Farm. The BLHF was originally located about six miles from its current site where the last President of the Republic of Texas lived in it. The delightful lady that checked us in at the HQ there told us as we headed toward this –
“…When you walk over that bridge, you’ll be in the 1850’s.”
Never ones to miss an opportunity to time travel (and current über fans of NBC’s Timeless), we hastily crossed said bridge, safely navigating whatever time vortex there that made the trip possible.
And then we saw this cow. This 1850’s cow. Which looked a lot like cows in the 2018’s.
Ahead on the path, we saw a house to the left…
…and some out buildings to the right. We went right because, honestly, I’m a sucker for country living and pioneer America is my love language, so off we went to explore the barn, the animals, and what ended up being the slaves’ quarters.
Lastly, we visited the main house where we encountered a lady from the 1850’s whose speech was somewhat awkward to our ears as we weaved in and out of the downstairs rooms of the dog trot style house. We were encouraged – okay, the kids in a separate group were encouraged, but we heard it as we were invited to join – in doing some household chores like washing clothes and hanging them to dry; play checkers on the porch; or catch grasshoppers to throw to the chickens. We did the last one and had the kids in that other group enraptured even though the chickens were a bit on the dim-witted side and 100% of the grasshoppers made it out of the chicken yard unscathed.
Once we exhausted our explorations in the wee patch of 1850’s that is Barrington Living History Farm, we headed back over the portal to the 2018’s (a.k.a. the bridge), back to the modern convenience of true air conditioning inside the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside), and on to our next adventure.
Why We Love Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site
Guided Tours. Anything Adam Arnold does. Seriously. We threw question after question at him and he remained unfazed. That man is a treasure to the park. Sit yourself under his wing for 45 minutes to an hour and soak up some Texas history.
Old Washington Town Site Loop Trail. Read the signage along the way. Listen to the Brazos River. Imagine yourself in the shoes of those who came before you.
Barrington Living History Farm. Travel back to the 1850’s. It’s priceless! Just know it will be hard to come back.
Must Do’s
An Adam Arnold Tour. See #1 above.
Old Washington Town Site Loop Trail. See #2 above.
Barrington Living History Farm. See #3 above.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site! Please share your experiences at this vintage State Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
By the time we visited Stephen F. Austin State Park, we knew the drill. There would be closures in the park due to Hurricane Harvey. We were prepped for that. We adjusted our expectations prior to arrival. We were ready to embrace whatever opportunities awaited us, and with that cranial approach, our visit to SFASP was a surprisingly pleasant experience!
I say surprisingly because the river portion of the park was closed, which meant no fishing, and like I have stated before, The Manling is happiest when he can drop a line in the water. But…
After talking with the most outgoing Park Ranger we’ve encountered to date – seriously, Bryan was super enthusiastic, a lover of birds and edible plants, and just so happened to know his park backwards and forwards, so he completely hooked us up with some stellar hikes in his breathtakingly beautiful park – we headed to our first stop.
I’ll never look at trees “dripping” with something in the same romantic way. Ever again. Seriously.
The Barred Owl Trail was a compact dirt trail through towering trees draped with what The Manling thought was called Grandfather’s Beard (which he pointed out was Tick Paradise, which maybe wasn’t what I especially wanted to hear in the moment. “And it’s good as a fire starter, too.” Okay, then. That info will come in handy if we need to send smoke signals once the ticks descend upon us en masse.) Within the first five minutes on the Barred Owl Trail, we heard a massive flutter overhead. Looking up, we were shocked to see an actual Barred Owl taking flight! Owls being a favorite of The Manling, he thrilled at being able to see one so up close while my prevailing thought was What an aptly named trail! closely followed by We’re definitely not going on the Copperhead Trail then!
We continued on that wide trail to the Scenic Overlook, which was the closest we got to the Brazos River. It was both beautiful to behold and sobering to see the destructive potential that rivers bear on the areas surrounding them.
Our next stop was the Amphitheater, where we parked the car for our hike on the Opossum Loop, which sounded like a way less sinister trail than the aforementioned Copperhead Trail (which Bryan suggested would be a great hike for us to explore, but I was not having that name in the HQ, and even less so once we encountered the Barred Owl on the Barred Owl Trail). Park Ranger Bryan pointed out that the Opossum Trail featured 100′ tall cottonwood trees draped in vines that were a definite must-see, and he was right. They were magnificent and majestic and exquisite and stunning. I got a little turned around with the map and directions in general while we were on that looped trail, but thankfully I had an Eagle Scout with me so I was able to just enjoy the sights and sounds while he navigated us back to the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside).
Look how utterly inviting the path looks as The Manling directs our steps into the blessed shade of those towering trees. Delightful!
I’m pretty sure this guy was stalking us.
Seriously the most serene, easy to follow trails through beautiful towering trees. SFASP knows how to do trails.
One more thing I want to point out is the fact that SFASP has the most adorable log cabin-type shelters in the existence of log cabin-type shelters. It totally looked like something out of pioneer America and if, by chance or plan, you find yourself in the area, I would highly recommend staying in their Log Cabin-inspired Tiny House Community. They would make such an adorable addition to your memory-making moments. Trust me.
See what I mean?
They are so adorable it almost hurts!
Why We Love Stephen F. Austin State Park
Log Cabin Tiny House Village. Go back and look at the pics. Adorable, right? You can’t help but want to make those a part of your memories at SFASP.
Aptly Named Trails. How often have you hiked a trail and thought, Why’d they name the trail that? I didn’t see anything but this. Amiright? We saw a Barred Owl on the Barred Owl Trail. Which leads me to believe the Sycamore Trail has Sycamore Trees; the Opossum Trail has opossum; and that Copperhead Trail has (gulp!) copperheads. There are maybe about 6 miles of trail in the park, broken down into very doable loops or one-ways that are very well maintained. Enjoy exploring them!
Bryan. This guy has information in spades stored in his noggin. Use him. He was a wealth of information, super friendly, and he made our adventure sound like so much fun I asked him to join us! (He actually wished he could, but he was training a new recruit that day.)
Must Do’s
Stay. Tiny Log Cabin Village. How can you not?! They also have camping, RV spots, a cabin, and group barracks. I’m partial to the pioneering-type shelters, but you do you.
Hike. The trails are all manageable lengths for most anybody. The longest trail is only 1.25 miles and it’s marked as Easy. Get out there and explore, especially the Barred Owl Trail and the Opossum Loop.
Talk to Bryan. He’s your man for all things SFASP-related. And if you really want to speak his language, ask him about birds or edible plants.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Stephen F. Austin State Park! Please share your thoughts on this magnificent park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
I have been mulling over how I would share our visit to Brazos Bend State Park since we visited in August 2018. Honestly, when we first arrived, I wasn’t feelin’ it. I was completely over sitting in the car; the older gentleman that was registering his RV took exactly forever; I felt on the verge of literal starvation; the entrance to the park featured an alligator, which gave me a deplorable sinking feeling; and quite frankly after visiting 44 state parks over the course of just a few months, I wondered if this one located roughly in the middle of Nowhere, TX, could offer anything worth the drive. This was the lovely frame of mind I was in when the older gentleman {finally} finished checking in and it was our turn. I have no doubt that the two Park Staffers wondered what my deal was when I less-than-half-heartedly asked for suggestions on what to see and do during our stay only to shoot down their suggestions one-by-one because, like I said, I wasn’t feelin’ it. I remember a lot of talk about alligators “here” and “there” (as spots were pointed out on the Park Map); there was some mention of birds around dusk (yawn – We’d already visited 3 bona fide birding centers, man! You can’t top that here!); yada-yada. Oh yeah, I was a delight.
As the Manling and I headed to our little tiny house (aka a screened shelter) to unpack, inflate, and introvert before we gave thought to what we felt like doing, my inner-toddler began whimpering for home, her bed, and some much needed solitude. After unloading our gear (basically our air mattresses, a camping toilet, and two portable mini-fans), The Manling (in the prime of his life) fell asleep with the sun still high in the sky. Not in the prime of my life, I can manage a quick nap maybe once a year, and today was to be my day. I fell asleep, too. Apparently, we were both road weary.
Isn’t our tiny home-away-from-home absolutely adorable with that little porch?! LOVE it!
Just because I’d be interested to see inside the tiny house, here ya go. This is right before our accidental naps, mere minutes into our introverting.
About forty-five minutes later, I jerked awake and thought, “We’d better do something about my imminent starvation.” I remembered one of the Park Staff saying something that sounded like “J-Cafe” and it being roughly 30 minutes away, but worth the drive for the “best food around.” I Yelped it, woke The Manling, and we headed toward our dinner with fingers crossed. Thirty minutes later, sitting unassumingly beside a two lane country road in Needville, TX, we pulled into the parking lot of “The Jay Cafe.” Within a minute, we found ourselves seated at the best seat in the house with our server attending to our every need.
Don’t beat around the bush. Order the chicken fried steak dinner. And treat yourself to a slice of their chocolate sheet cake because life is short. Live a little.
Our table was next to the only picture window in the room and overlooked a sweet little garden area. Peaceful, just like the doctor ordered.
An hour later, we were fat and happy from tried-and-true Texas favorites and we headed back to BBSP. This time, as we passed by the alligator sign, I felt cheerier and ready for an adventure. We headed for Hale Lake for some fishing and photography, both of which ended up being rewarding!
The Manling didn’t catch anything he’d consider worth mentioning, but I was impressed that he kept catching little guys off this really tall pier. That’s gotta take skill.
While The Manling fished, I walked part of the Hale Lake Loop Trail. Until I came across this sign. And like The Man says, they choose the wording on warnings for a reason, so I guess at some point in the past an alligator was…molested?
Next, we decided to drive around to explore the park, which eventually led us to Elm Lake. We decided to park and walk around this beautiful area on foot, which is how we stumbled across the wildlife viewing area on the water – and the first of two truly unforgettable encounters with nature we experienced firsthand at BBSP.
This needs to be attached to my house – the covered porch AND the view.
We saw lots of alligator trails through the water. No alligators though.
While we were enjoying the setting sun through the trees, the calm serenity of the lake, the shade of the wildlife viewing area, and the few birds enjoying this lush paradise, we were startled out of our moment of peace by quite a racket overhead as hundreds (if not thousands!) of birds entered BBSP to roost for the evening. SERIOUSLY. Hundreds (or possibly thousands!) of birds flew just over our heads, continuing past our perch on the wildlife viewing deck in search of their own for the night. Never has either of us seen such an awesome spectacle! “This must be what the Park Staff was talking about when they mentioned the birds,” I commented to The Manling with due awe infusing my words. Dear reader, put this on the top of your To-Do list for Brazos Bend State Park. Trust me.
Next we drove to 40 Acre Lake with just enough sunset left for The Manling to fish a little before we called it a night. I don’t remember if he caught anything off of the pier. What I do remember is this:
These are sobering signs. Especially at dusk. We, however, didn’t cross any alligators. Thankfully.
Fast-forward past showers in some of the most incredible State Park bathrooms you’ve ever used.
Past this guy enjoying our tiny house’s porch as much as we did…
We almost walked into this guy (about the size of my palm) while we were unloading the car). He was still there when we left the following day.
Past a great night’s sleep (once we got used to the bright lights our neighbor was using. He had hung white sheets around his porch and had bright lights atop tripods to attract bugs so that he could photograph them, which I guess was kind of cool. At least he was quiet. And in the end, better his porch than ours. Have all the bugs, neighbor. They’re yours.).
We awakened just as the sky began turning from the black of night to the gray of pre-dawn when our phone’s alarms simultaneously pulled us from sound sleep. After the obligatory stretches and yawns, we pulled on shoes, nodded our Good morning’s, and drove the car back to 40 Acre Lake to catch the sun’s rise from the Observation Tower. By the time we arrived, there was enough light to justify walking the 40 Acre Lake Trail (a loop around the lake), the Observation Tower being located on the other side of the lake from the parking lot. This early morning hike was the second of those two truly extraordinary wildlife encounters, for The Manling and I saw dozens of alligators in the water on either side of that trail by the time we finished the loop! And lest this doesn’t fill you with some kind of emotional response, let me share that there is nothing between you and the alligators. Nada. The trail is raised a few feet above the water, so that is something. But these are not the safe encounters you are used to in a zoo setting where safety precautions abound. Here is your safety precaution at BBSP –
Back to our sunrise walk. The Manling and I were making our way to the halfway point of the loop so that we could climb the Observation Tower, him all fearless and me all jumpy, when S P L A S H !
“What was that?!” whispered I.
“That was probably just a bird, Mom,” said he.
Yes, he really did reply that the huge splash! we’d just heard was probably a bird. I was all, “How big a bird do you think that was???” Seriously?? A bird?! Then we saw this swimming our way –
The Manling said oh-so-nonchalantly, “It was probably that alligator getting into the water.” And let me tell you, friend, we didn’t see it until it had gotten into the water from the trail we were on. Sobering. Like those signs posted every 50 feet or so. It just got real all up in here.
We continued on the trail, more vigilant than ever, both of the trail and the water. By the time we made it to the Observation Tower, we had already seen almost 10 alligators in the water, most so inanimate that the one who spotted it had to point it out to the other.
Our reward for getting up so early and braving a sunrise hike around a lake known to contain alligators was this view.
We saw plenty of fishing birds on the other side of the Observation Tower.
After this early morning “hike” surrounded by dozens of alligators (big. small. everything in-between.), The Manling and and I returned to our tiny house to load up the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside), sweep out our digs, and bid Brazos Bend State Park a very reluctant Goodbye. As we were exiting the park, we had one last interaction with one of the local ‘gators who came out to bid us adieu.
Cute. Seems like a missed opportunity, tho. Just a little.
Until next time, Brazos Bend State Park. We most assuredly will be back. Guaranteed.
Why We Love Brazos Bend State Park
Facilities. Having used the facilities in over 56 Texas State Parks, I feel I am becoming a subject matter expert on the subject. Trust me when I say Brazos Bend State Park has some of the nicest I’ve had the pleasure to use!
Alligators. Go on an alligator hike. The Park Staff can tell you where they’ve been spotted recently. Mind the signage. (Be safe, not sorry.) And have an awesome firsthand experience like we did. (P.S. Don’t molest the alligators. And hold on to your dogs. Just sayin’.)
Birds. IDK if this is a year-round occurrence, but during late summer the birds flock there by the hundreds (nay, thousands!) to roost for the night. It is a spectacle not to be missed. It was awesome!
Tiny Houses. You’ve simply got to live tiny while you’re there. The little tiny house ‘hood is adorable! Private. Quiet. And you can bring your fans to keep you cool.
Trails. Thirty-seven miles of trails to explore and enjoy! It’s quiet. Peaceful. Beautifully lush.
Sunrise/Sunset. Both are incredible! We recommend the Wildlife Viewing Area for sunset and the Observation Tower for sunrise. Or vice versa.
Must Do’s
Observation Tower. You truly cannot get a firm grip on the terrain of BBSP without seeing it from this bird’s eye view. Totally worth the mini-hike to climb this tower. Incredible 360 degree views of beautiful.
Fish. I believe The Manling caught somewhere every place he dropped a line. Nothing terribly large, but big enough to feel on your line. And anytime you can catch something, it’s better than not.
Stay. Camp. RV. Shelter. Cabin with amenities. Whatever your preference, BBSP has you covered. (Get it?)
Explore the Trails. There are lots of them through some of the most lush parts of Texas. It’s beautiful, serene, and filled with wildlife. Hike ’em. Bike ’em. You can even ride ’em (on your horse). Go make a memory!
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Brazos Bend State Park! Please share your experiences at this phenomenal {if a little fearful} wildlife retreat in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
Galveston Island State Park is a park we’ve returned to again and again. No two visits are the same.
August 2018
There was the year that Galveston had the fiercest storm they’d had in years and we erected our palatial three-room tent in the deluge only to have the wind snap our poles and render our fancy digs dumpster fodder. The one in which we were awake half the night praying begging prayers for the good Lord to deliver us from literally being blown into the bay. The camp out when we learned that the most beautiful sunsets are after the most trying storms. The one during which we carpe diem’d every moment, rain or shine, and discovered that I hate raccoons with an unnatural fervency. We geocached. We rode horses on the beach. We fished and caught a crab and a sting ray. We were bullied out of the bathrooms by hundreds of tiny crabs. And that is the one we look back on with the fondest memories!
Circa 2014
Then there was the one we abhor. Nothing went right in the most unpleasant of ways. The mosquitos were on us like it was their paying jobs to give us the West Nile virus. The tent camping loop, we discovered, had no electricity. That mattered because it was the end of summer, 100 degrees at night, and we had zero means to plug in our oscillating fans – must-haves for summer camping in Texas. Our neighbors arrived late (after 10pm) and proceeded to erect their tent and party like it was 1999 until 3 or 4am – and the only thing between our ears and their partying was a flap of canvas. The year The Man and The Manling decided sunscreen was of the devil and fishing in the ocean without it (or a shirt) for a few hours would be no big deal (it was). The trip when we all secretly wished to pack up and go home and eventually one of us ventured to put out a feeler to the idea at which ALL of us heaved deep sighs of relief and got to packing.
Circa 2015
And then there was this year, when The Manling and I were the late arrivals, erecting our two tiny tents by the headlights of the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside). This time, however, we were in a smaller, but electric site (RV loop) so we were able to have tiny fans to keep us cool. To God be the glory!
Note: white extension cords to our tents. So much better with the air moving! Bonus note: white noise to drown out the nocturnal critter sounds.
We set our alarms to wake up at the crack of dawn so that we could watch the sun rise over the water, a new thing for us at GISP and one which we highly recommend anywhere you are camping. There is seriously not a better way to start your day.
The crack of dawn came too early for one of us. (Love this pic taken from inside my tent of The Manling inside his.)
Two gates between our camp site and the beach, which The Manling lethargically unlocked and opened for us using the code supplied for late arrivals.
I won’t lie to you. Facing that narrow path in the wee, still-mostly-dark hours was a bit daunting…because snakes.
But then I looked to the east and knew this would be one sunrise worth facing my fears.
Glad to be oh-so-right!
As we continued to wake, The Manling took to the solitude of the surf, hoping to land “the big one,” and I took to the solitude of the shower because I’m a girl that likes to feel clean even if all I will do is sweat the rest of the day. It’s a quirk I don’t mind having.
Freshly showered in GISP’s excellent cedar restrooms (seriously, these things are luxurious!), I spent the rest of the day watching The Manling enjoy his favorite past time while surrendering to the peaceful serenity of beach life. (We attempted to geocache at one point, but the spot the app led us to was too overgrown for my personal comfort. And we talked about hiking to the Observation Tower, but eventually decided to save that adventure for another trip. It was a hundred degrees, after all, so why exert yourself when the beach beckons?)
I love watching him cast the net and he loves not paying for bait fish. Win-win!
I don’t think I ever noticed how chock full of wildlife the beach is!
A flock of…pelicans!
This little guy stalked The Manling the entire time he fished in this spot on the Bayside, hoping for a free meal.
Why We Love Galveston Island State Park
Facilities. Galveston Island State Park had the first truly nice restrooms we’d ever experienced within a State Park. And years later, they are still amazing. This means a lot to skittish visitors like myself, especially when staying overnight and having to use the showers to wash off the stink from fishing and hundred degree days. Well done, GISP!
Fishing. The fishing is really good from the Bayside shores, from kayaks, or standing in the Gulf of Mexico…you will feel like an expert angler at GISP, especially if you use fresh shrimp.
Camping. We have camped beachside and bayside (both loops). There’s just not a bad place to hang your hat at GISP. (Word to the wise, if you’re camping during the summer, bring a fan and use the RV loop or beachside so that you’ll have electricity. Trust me.)
Sunrise/Sunset. Worth every minute of lost sleep, GISP appears to have cornered the market on the most brilliantly colored sunrises and sunsets available to man. Enjoy them!
Must Do’s
Stay. They have new-ish cabins on the Bayside; RV loop with hookups and a tent loop with no hook ups on the Bayside; and electric/water sites on the Beachside for RV or tents. There is something for everyone and every budget, so what are you waiting for?
Fish. The Manling prefers the peaceful tranquility of the Bayside, but beach fishing at GISP has also been good to him. Use shrimp or bait fish.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Galveston Island State Park! Please share your experiences at this beachy retreat of aState Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
The Manling and I pointed the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside) toward the Gulf of Mexico in the wee hours of an August 2018 morning, excited for a one-day getaway to a new-to-us, beachy destination in the southeast corner of the Great State of Texas. We arrived about an hour after Sea Rim State Park opened, profusely excited over two things – the probability of seeing alligators and the possibility of catching sharks. The Park Staff that we met in the HQ was an encouragement to us regarding the attainability of our goals and even shared a personal video that she had taken the day before of one of the local ‘gators crossing the road from the beach to the marsh side of the park. This one gesture served to fan the embers of our hopes and dreams, bursting them into a full-fledged fire on the spot. Next, she gave us tips on what other ocean anglers had used to catch sharks at SRSP and directed us to the nearest bait shop, unfortunately located ten miles east. Back into the Tiny Toyota Tardis we went, headed east toward a grocery store we “couldn’t miss” in Sabine Pass to buy both shrimp and mullet, the tasty treats that would {hopefully} land The Manling his first shark.
Bait acquired, we headed back to Sea Rim. We stopped by the Marsh Unit on the off chance that an alligator might be visible before we continued to the beach side of the park. We parked the car near the rental cabin and began looking, looking, looking.
Was that…?
Yes, lying completely still and silently observing us observing her near the kayak launch was a roughly 6 foot beauty! Apparently shy, she noiselessly disappeared under the surface of the water as we slowly approached, making the far away photo below the only evidence of our encounter.
Can you spy with your little eye our new friend?
With goal #1 accomplished before lunch, we headed to the gulf side of the park with a proverbial spring in our step to work on goal #2. We passed the HQ and steered the Tiny Toyota Tardis onto the beach – yeah, onto the beach – because at SRSP, the sand is so “packed” that you can actually drive onto it, even in a tiny, lightweight 2-door stick shift! From that moment forward, the world (or at least this beautiful, beachy portion of it) was our oyster!
SRSP boasts five miles of gulf front property and we, my friends, were the sole occupants. See?
Not a sole in sight to the east…
…nor to the west.
Once we set up shop for the day, The Manling got down to the very serious business of trying to land himself a shark. He fished for five straight hours while I read, relaxed, and simply enjoying the bliss of this shared moment in time at this special place.
Shortly after lunch, we headed to the Gambusia Nature Trail, an easy twenty minute trail through the marshes atop a genuine boardwalk. As in, the entire trail is a boardwalk through the marshes and since rumor had it that some of the alligators enjoyed sunning themselves around midday, we thought we’d take a peek. I was admittedly a wee bit cautious as we entered the boardwalk trail because of the au naturale condition that greeted us.
I persevered, however, around that curve to the right, through the super tall growth that I was afraid concealed some hungry ‘gators, and all the way to the first glimpses of water under our path. In other words, about 150 feet. Then I looked down into the water to the left just in time to see a snake swim out from under the boardwalk about four feet in front of me, at which point I decided to make a hasty exit.
Feeling exasperated by my phobia, I began to think of a way to conquer my fear and this trail. It was then that I spotted my new best friend, Marie, enjoying a picnic lunch with her husband and sweet granddaughter. Before giving it any thought, I walked straight over to them and asked if they were, by any chance, planning to walk the boardwalk trail after their picnic. Reader, I visibly exhaled when she answered that they were and agreed to let us tag along – a little Colorado Bend State Park déjà vu for the win!
Totally stoked, I left Marie and family to finish their picnic in peace. I walked back to the Toyota to inform The Manling of the good news, at which he may have rolled his eyes in exasperation. But, he let it lie and just rolled with it. This wasn’t his first time at the rodeo.
Long story short, Marie and her daughter had a fabulous time walking, skipping, and basically just enjoying the sights and sounds of the birds, the fish, and a couple of times, me. I was on Mr. Marie like white on rice. The poor man practically wore me like a knapsack as we strolled casually around the 3/4 mile boardwalk, which in places seemed a little too on the rickety side for my preference. Nary an alligator did we see, sunning itself or otherwise. I did look up from my frozen view of Mr. Marie’s shoes a couple of times and was treated to some breathtakingly beautiful scenery.
Photo Credit: Marie, who shared this photo she took of her blessed husband and The Manling dutifully flanking me like we were the British on patrol during the Revolution.
Since the rest of the trails were all paddling trails (and we didn’t ask the Tiny Toyota Tardis to shoulder the burden of carrying the kayak, which would definitely be a picture-worthy sight), all that was left on the agenda was to live in the moment on the beautiful bit of beach we had claimed while The Manling continued his quest for goal #2.
Catch-and-release
While The Manling landed one fish after another, in the end a shark was not counted among them. I did a very little bit of exploring on my own (mainly the Dune Boardwalk), and spent the rest of our time at Sea Rim State Park savoring the memories I was making with The Manling from the comfort of my camping chair.
As all good things must, our magnificent day at SRSP came to a close- just as a summer storm crested the northern horizon behind us.
That’s a big storm brewing behind the Tiny Toyota Tardis!
On our way out of the park, we stopped by the Marsh Unit one more time on the off chance that we might see another alligator, which proved the perfect way to end our time at Sea Rim State Park on a very high note.
Can you see that big, beautiful head in the water?
Why We Love Sea Rim State Park
Water. Texas summers should always, 100% of the time, equal water. It’s hot as Hades here. Water makes it bearable. The steady breeze off the waters of the Gulf aren’t too bad, either.
Fishing. The fishing was excellent and even though The Manling didn’t land his first shark, he had a stellar day doing what he loved. It’s always more fun catching when you go fishing.
Alligators. I have a morbidly curious fascination with the alligators in Texas, especially in the State Parks. And we saw TWO this day! Score!
Uncrowded. The location (which is remote) is the only sense that I can make of the place being so unpopulated. But hey, that’s our jam! We loved feeling like this was our private piece of paradise for the day!
Must Do’s
Fish. Grab some mullet and shrimp before heading to the park. That grocery store in Sabine Pass 10 miles to the east can hook you up. Then park your keister on the beach for the day, reeling ’em in til your heart is content.
Relax. The park is situated in a pretty remote place, which seemed to be the only reason it was uncrowded on our visit. You can do some serious de-stressing on that underpopulated stretch of Gulf coast. You’re welcome.
Nature. Enjoy the sea birds. I literally watched their shenanigans for hours. Go on an alligator hunt – just keep your distance and don’t be a fool. Those things are completely wild. Exercise caution.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Sea Rim State Park! Please share your experiences at this uncrowded piece of paradise in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
The Manling and I visited Abilene State Park in July 2018. It was our first visit to this gem, even though it is only three hours from our home in North Texas. En route, I hunkered down for some alone time in my favorite space – my head – while The Manling reposed in the passenger seat of the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside). As the road changed from interstate to a two-lane road, the scenery morphed. I exchanged the flat expanses of I-20 for sublime roads more akin to roller-coaster tracks filled with hills, valleys, twists, and turns. No longer was I staring across level fields of wind turbines. I was now delightedly driving through miles and miles of them as I wound my way ever closer to Abilene State Park.
The Manling had been awake all of 60 seconds when we snapped our entry selfie. God bless him.
While registering our visit with the Park Staff upon arrival, we chatted both of them up about their park, attempting to extract from each what they personally considered top notch V.I.P. experiences within ASP. Their suggestions combined with the plethora of activities listed on the website greased the wheels of my imagination for a fall camp out with friends, from which the gears have continued to spin. From this ceaseless planning, I have created:
Abilene State Park’s Top 10 Activities for Every Person on the Planet
10. Swimming. Open during the summer, ASP offers park goers a ginormous swimming pool, a smaller wading pool, tons of seating, and even shaded lounge chairs to make for an epic poolside day of fun in the sun (or shade). The perfect cure for the Texas summer heat.
9. Bird Blind. Lots of State Parks provide special areas for guests to enjoy the sights and sounds of their winged visitors, but ASP went a step beyond with their bird blind. We could actually hear the wings of several hummingbirds from our vantage point, as well as the happy chirping and singing of several other varieties of birds visiting their favorite, shaded, protected watering hole. Delightful!
8. Horseshoes. Nestled under glorious shade trees near the pool and beautiful CCC-constructed water tower are actual horseshoe pits! As in, good ol’ fashioned fun from yesteryear!
7. Kayak/Canoe Rental. Rentals are available in the park’s HQ for kayaks and canoes, a fun way to explore Lake Abilene during your visit.
6. Team Building Game(s). Sand volleyball. Soccer. Baseball. Kickball. There’s space for all of these fun team building games at ASP! Grab some friends and bond over a competitive sport…or two!
5. Fishing. There is a pond on the HQ side of the park, but there’s a lake across the road surrounded by the beautiful rolling hills of the Callahan Divide. The whole time you’re fishing, you’ve got the sneaking suspicion that you are actually somehow fishing on the planet Mars with the beautiful orange terra firma beneath your feet.
4. Trails. With around five miles of them, you could legitimately see the entire park by foot over the course of a weekend. Some are bike-accessible, too! The ones we trekked on our visit were beautiful with canopied trees, lush undergrowth, and a variety of birds providing an enjoyable soundtrack while we explored.
3. Sunset. Lake Abilene at sunset. Trust me.
2. Geocaching. There were a few free geocaches within the park and I have to give kudos to the brilliant blokes that hid them. They were FANTASTIC! I may sound like a broken record, but geocaching is the best way to explore a new area. Download the free app and go have fun modern-day treasure hunting!
1. Staying. This is number one because of the variety of wonderful, picturesque, and one-of-a-kind accommodations available at ASP.
Tent camping? yes
RV camping? yes
Lakeside Cabin? yes
Tiny House Village? yes (a.k.a. shelters, but they look like an adorable tiny house village set underneath the trees!)
YURTS? oh my, yes! (Sign me up for an overnighter in a bona fide yurt complete with beds and an a/c, please!)
Why We Love Abilene State Park
Location. I mentioned driving through miles and miles of twisty-turny, up-and-down roads through the towering wind turbines en route to ASP. When we left, we were treated to the likes of Buffalo Gap, a precious little piece of ‘Merica that will make you want to listen to Lee Greenwood sing “Proud to be an American” on a loop while you explore it via the geocache method of tourism.
Variety of Activities. Boating. Swimming. Horseshoes. Team Sports. Fishing. Hiking. Biking. Bird Watching. Geocaching. Exploring. It’s all there for the taking, friend.
Accommodations. Yurts, people. Yurts with a/c. And if that isn’t enough, shelters that look like a Tiny House Village nestled under beautiful trees. If those are too primitive, there’s a legitimate Lake House Cabin. Or if you are so inclined to bring your own accommodations, the tent or RV sites are picture perfect.
Must Do’s
Um, see the above list.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Abilene State Park! Please share your experiences at this deliciously divertingState Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
The landscape as you drive I-20 in West Texas is flat. Really flat. It is literally mile after flat mile of basically the exact same view, which isn’t necessarily bad. It can, however, become monotonous. Which is why you take the five minute detour when you see the one raised portion of earth in Big Spring jutting out of it’s utterly flat surroundings.
We have visited Big Spring State Park twice now and both times it served as a fabulous diversion from the monotony of travel and lent fresh eyes to the vastly flat West Texas landscape. Our first visit was years ago in the heat of a hot Texas summer afternoon. Even with the soaring temps, BSSP was sprinkled with locals walking pets, running, and hiking it’s winding incline. Our second visit in mid-July 2018 was just after the gates opened at 8am and it was again populated by locals getting their exercise on during the cooler part of the day. Young. Old. Two-legged, or four. Everything in-between. BSSP is absolutely loved by the locals and even the hottest day of the year doesn’t keep them from enjoying their park.
And here’s why –
Why We Love Big Spring State Park
Free. That’s right. Visiting this Texas State Park is absolutely FREE. You literally have nothing to lose and elevation to gain. Go for it.
Views. Appreciate the vastness of the West Texas landscape from the Big Spring State Park vantage point – 200 feet up!
Inspiring. If you need motivation to get moving, look no further than the parking lot of BSSP. The cars arrive before sunrise to claim one of the limited spots at the bottom of the bluff while its inhabitants get their exercise on. Walk your dog. Hike. Run. You will be inspired toward fitness at BSSP.
Must Do’s
Early or Late. You’ve got to treat yourself to a spectacular West Texas sunrise or sunset. Just mind the times the gates are locked.
Hoof It. Walk your dog. Hike. Run. Just get out of the car and experience BSSP the right way – on foot!
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Big Spring State Park! Please share your thoughts on this State Park that is loved by the locals in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
First of all, the road to the parking lot of the Wyler Aerial Tramway could be kissing cousins to the Crookedest Street in the World in San Fransisco. It was steep from the very beginning with incredible switchbacks that made driving our two-door stick shift an off-the-charts kind of adventure. Kudos to the planners that engineered that paved piece of paradise!
Secondly, from the moment we got in line to ride the Tramway to the top of Ranger Peak, The Manling and I were treated like V.I.P.s. Those tiny little trams tote a great many people up and down Ranger Peak all the livelong day and in order to do that efficiently, they occasionally combine parties for the ride. Such was our case. Shortly after we joined the lengthening line to patiently wait our turn at the bottom, we heard a call for “any two-person parties” and quickly raised our hands. As we made our way forward, apologizing to the crowd, we were legitimately boo‘d. I think they were kidding, but if they weren’t, I totally get it. It was a thousand degrees and we were cheating the system that they had obediently followed. (Not only did we get to skip the line like V.I.P.’s on the way up, we also got to skip it on the way down – but I’ll tell you about that later. Wait for it.)
Even though we both suffer from a serious fear of heights, that ride up to Ranger Peak was spectacular. It was Standing Room Only in our tiny tram (because there is only one seat and it is reserved for the Tram Operator), which we shared with a sweet Grandma and her five young grand-minions. It was an ideal scenario, really, because everyone was so short-of-stature that we enjoyed 360 degree unimpeded views over their wee little heads (Grandma included).
Once at the top, we read all the signage in a quest to properly orient ourselves so we could fully appreciate our mile-high vantage point.
Mexico? Check.
Army base? Check.
Airport? Check.
This mountain? Check.
That mountain? Check.
Rio Grande? Check.
Border crossing? Check, check, and check.
Next, we made our way to the Souvenir Shop to get a Park Map because we, my friends, were planning to hike to the Crash Site. What Crash Site, you may ask? I have no idea, but it sounded like something that would happen in Roswell and that was just too cool for us to take a pass.
In order to do that, however, for the first time in my life, I had to get a bona fide hiking permit. The area the commoners are allowed to walk around at the top of Ranger Peak is small. And gated. Not really intended for extended visits. Kind of a treat-em-and-street-em scenario. You actually cannot physically touch the mountain while you’re on top of it because it’s all platform and souvenir shop and machinery…unless you secure hiking permits. And we had them. I confess that I was high on my own importance as we walked purposely toward the gate, threw it open, and boldly walked passed the RESTRICTED ACCESS sign and onward toward our adventure amid the wide-eyed stares of the more ordinary folk.
Now let me backtrack for a sec because Ranger Eddie (who, in my opinion, seemed unnecessarily concerned for our welfare at the time) drilled into us this important advice before we headed out on our 1-1.5 hour hike: take a lot more hydration with you than you figure you’ll need, and constantly orient yourself via the Tram Stop at the top of Ranger Peak. Do those two things, and you should be a-ok. Oh! And watch your footing, so I guess three things. Seeing as our surplus of water was back down in the parking lot in the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside), we concluded we had enough in our packs for such a short hike. After all, Eddie didn’t know us, or our mad hiking skills.
I tucked the map into my back pack because WE GOT THIS, MAN. Plus, The Manling is an Eagle Scout and they know how to orienteer their way out of a black hole, so I was set to just enjoy the views and the company for the next hour or so.
The beginning of the trail was a series of descents to where the trail actually evened out, more or less, as it encircled Ranger Peak. I was feeling pretty smug and superior as we alone made our way along the trail Ranger Eddie had pointed out from the the Tram Stop above.
Yeah. Real climbing went on to get to the mostly even trail shown in the next pic.
This right here. This is what Ranger Eddie pointed out to us from above – a nice, obvious path. What could go wrong?
I was also beginning to feel lightheaded. The cure, I discovered, was to look at the ground a few feet in front of my feet, so that is how we made our way around the mountain, Jesse in front talking and navigating us while I brought up the rear, head angled down. Occasionally we stopped so that I could take in the view or snap some pics, but for the most part, we continued toward the Crash Site Overlook in this fashion until…
I looked up and realized we were almost to Guardhouse #2. Which is on a different trail altogether. The Tram Stop – that was suppose to faithfully remain to our right en route to the overlook – was now directly behind us. My shoulders sagged a little, remembering that this was what Ranger Eddie had warned us not to let happen. Sigh.
After a quick call to Ranger Eddie in the Souvenir Shop, we retraced our steps back up the mountain, searching for the signage that would direct us back onto the proper trail and sucking down a lot of water in the process because mountain climbing in the July afternoon heat in West Texas is dehydrating, to say the least. Eventually we spotted this –
Yo, Eagle Scout. How did you not see this sign? “I was enjoying the view.”
– at which point I may have collapsed to give my shaking legs a much-needed break from the vertical climb while I sucked down even more H2O, and, at which point, The Manling informed me that we were on our last two bottles. Drats! We both knew we could not make it to the Crash Site Overlook on the water left in those two bottles, not if we planned to make the return trip. Reluctantly, and with heads hanging a little lower in disappointment, we began the slow hike back to the top of the peak.
I’m going to spare you the long and arduous return trip except to say that we lost the trail THREE. TIMES. Yes, THREE more times we climbed up higher than we should have before retracing our steps back down, or we went lower than we should have before having to reclimb our way back up to the trail, and we only had that scant amount of water left and at this rate, we were surely not going to make it back unassisted, so eventually my feels about all of this had to come out and I cried – A LOT! – which may have exasperated The Manling because he doesn’t yet know how to process a grown woman crying out in despair.
At one point I asked The Manling to please, please, please say something to encourage me. “How about one of those verses you learned in AWANA? Gimme something to hold on to!” He paused and then said, “Even though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil…” to which I replied, “No! No! No! Not that one! I was thinking something along the lines of ‘I can do all things through Christ Who strengthens me or something!'” to which he replied, “Well, that was the only one I could think of right now.”
I remember at one point trying to calculate how much it would cost The Man if we had to have a helicopter rescue off that mountainside because I felt like I literally could not climb one more step.
And, to add insult to injury, I felt like I was about to hurl!
Eventually, my shaking legs did make it back to the top and they somehow deposited me into the air conditioned Souvenir Shop where I unceremoniously claimed a spot on the floor by the collector’s coin machine that takes a penny and smooshes it with an “engraving” of the place you’re visiting, at which point a Park Staffer (Nicole) came to render me aid. After getting cold, wet towels on important places on my body to help lower my internal temperature, Nicole called down to the bottom to have the snap towel in the freezer brought up on the next gondola for me. While she was doing this, The Manling bought me a pretty gargantuan-sized Gatorade – on his own dime.
Did I mention I was wearing all black while we hiked in 100+ degree heat, including running tights?
Eventually, and after everyone was satisfied that I could walk to the gondola unassisted, I was escorted to the front of the line for the second time that day. And you know that one seat that was reserved for the Tram operator? He gave it to V.I.P. me.
Why We Love Wyler Aerial Tramway State Park
Gondola. Those things are so cool! It takes about four minutes each way, but they are four very thrilling minutes! The Tram Operator directs your attention to various sights and cool information like the fact that both trams go at the same speed, but the other one will always appear faster. This ride is well worth the cost of admission.
Views. There is signage all around the viewing deck at the top of Ranger Peak that helps you discern where certain things are located. Like Mexico. Pretty cool! And being a mile high, there’s a lot to see up there!
Park Staff. Bless ’em, one and all. From Eddie talking to us about the serious nature of hiking in the heat around his mountain to Nicole swiftly rendering me aid to the Tram Operator who yielded his seat, they are all top notch in my book.
Trails. Man o man, do they ever have some doozies at WAT! There is one that even starts at the parking lot and climbs ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP. That’s some serious climbing! There are others that wind their way around the mountain, like the one we attempted. Word to the wise – the trails are loose rock on a rock mountain. Very tricky with the footing in a lot of spots. Wear grippy shoes and for the love of all things good, carry a TON of water.
Must Do’s
Tram Ride. Keep your cameras ready, this is a truly great experience and you’ll want to capture some of it on film. Plus, it’s the sole way to get to the top and those fantastic views, unless you plan to climb.
Hike. Please don’t let our experience dissuade you from some truly remarkable trails with unbelievable views because the next time we are in West Texas, we’re trying that trail to the Crash Site Overlook again. It was one of the best we’ve experienced, even though we didn’t conquer it!
Hydrate. Pack more water than you think you’ll need. And then double it. Truly, don’t suffer heat-related issues on the mountain. Take a ton of water with you. Just trust me on this one.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Wyler Aerial Tramway State Park! Please share your experiences at this mile high State Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
We got lost. Waze, who had become our BFF on our West Texas Road Trip by navigating us through the middle of many nowheres for five days straight and diverting us around a parking lot situation on I-20 in Odessa on day one, kind of let us down on the day we pointed the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside) toward El Paso’s Franklin Mountains by not intuitively knowing we meant the Tom Mays part of the park. On the flip side, she did get us to the HQ, which hooked us up with the likes of Erika the Office Manager and Ranger X (for Xavier – how cool is that?!) and they not only showed us how to get to the part of the park that we wanted, they also talked us through some great options once we got there. So, serendipity. (To aid you in your adventure, use this address in your map app – “Tom Mays Park Access Road” – to get to where the adventure is in Franklin Mountains State Park. It’s on the opposite side of the mountain from the HQ.)
FMSP is serious about mountain biking, offering a fix-it station at the Beginner’s Loop!
We mountain biked. I mean, we had burdened the Tiny Toyota Tardis with a heavy bike rack, our bikes, and The Manling’s fishing gear for days of driving up and down mountains, along rough dirt roads, across jarring cattle grates, and through stop-and-go big city traffic. And now, now we were finally getting to use them! Ranger X suggested the Beginner’s Loop to test our skills (because it was the most level), so that was our first stop. We figured we’d get a taste for what we were in for before we progressed to the more advanced trails. Ranger X did us a solid. The Beginner Loop is no joke, people. It was a barely discernible, teeny-tiny, twisty-turny trail through sharp cactus and over even sharper loose rock that caused us to skid and slide our way around it until I popped my chain. Twice. And got a flat. Back at the car thirty minutes later, we felt like we’d had a proper sampling of what mountain biking in West Texas was like and we were good. As in, done.
We paused at the entrance to the Beginner’s Loop to take in the spectacular view of the Franklin Mountains. Note: The beginning is the only wide portion of the trail you’ll see.
The Beginner’s Loop was the most level of all the trails, but it was a narrow, slippery ride that left me questioning my mountain biking prowess.
We hiked. We headed to the various trail heads next to get a sense of which one(s) we would tackle in the nearly-noon heat. Ranger X suggested we check out the Aztec Caves Trail or the Cottonwood Spring Trail. After a quick drive by of both, the Manling was feeling the Cottonwood Spring Trail. Since he was already feeling the effects of the heat from our mountain bike ride on the Beginner’s Loop, I just went with it, no questions asked. Long story short, we never made it to the lone cottonwood perched up on the rocky mountain’s side, clearly visible from the parking lot. And also clearly farther away than it looked, especially in temps that soared above 100 degrees. We made it about halfway before deciding that even if we continuously chugged the rest of our electrolyte-filled waters, that would not be enough to replenish our bodies for the remainder of the hike. We reluctantly retraced our steps back to the parking lot, the cold a/c of our vehicle, and drown our defeat in still more electrolytes in an attempt to recover from #4.
Heading up the rocky Cottonwood Spring Trail full of hopes and dreams
And heading back down the rocky Cottonwood Spring Trail, dehydrated and deflated
We suffered heat-related exhaustion. I don’t know how we could have prepped for a better outcome because we sucked down electrolytes all the livelong day like we were doing a paid endorsement, and we make sure our foodstuffs provided prime nourishment for our bodies so that they would be up to the tasks we asked said bodies to do. Maybe it was the time of day. Maybe it was the over 100 degree temps. Maybe it was the dry, West Texas heat. I don’t know. All I have to share is this, Be Aware. Heat exhaustion is real. When you go out and about and start to feel yourself struggle, Go Back. Live to adventure another day, my friend.
Why We Love Franklin Mountains State Park
Mountain Biking. If this is your thing, go for it! In my opinion, the trails are for experienced mountain bikers, including the Beginner’s Loop. Word to the wise – bring extra tubes because the rocks and cactus are sharp. You’ll need ’em.
Hiking. Excellent trails like the Cottonwood Spring and Aztec Caves await you. One thing I really liked and would make me return is that we never made it to our destinations. And you can see the caves as a gaping hole in the mountain from the parking lot and that kind of is an irresistible draw. Same for the Cottonwood Spring – you can see one, lone Cottonwood on the side of the mountain and you just HAVE to go to it. Wear good shoes. And drink plenty of electrolytes.
Park Staff. Office Manager Erika, Ranger X, and Ranger Geoff (whom we met in the Beginner’s Loop parking lot) were all top-notch human beings. Make sure to meet them and take advantage of their knowledge of the park to help plan your adventure in it.
Mountain Pass. Make sure you mistakenly start at the HQ so that you can ensure the drive through the Franklin Mountains pass, which was fun and beautiful and a little humbling when your car is struggling to the top, but totally worth it.
Must Do’s
Trails. They have long trails, short trails, bike trails, foot trails, even trails, steep trails. They have all of the kinds of trails you could imagine at FMSP. Go explore!
Hydrate. Talk to the Park Staff before your visit for suggestions on how to not have to cut your trip short like we did. It is seriously hot. And it is seriously dangerous to under-prepare. Educate yourselves before you go.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Franklin Mountains State Park! Please share your experiences at this hot-to-trot State Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
The landscape as you drive I-20 in West Texas is flat. Really flat. It is literally mile after flat mile of basically the exact same view, which isn’t necessarily bad. It can, however, become monotonous. Which is why you take the five minute detour when you see the one raised portion of earth in Big Spring jutting out of it’s utterly flat surroundings.
