Remember the episode of Gilmore Girls when Luke was livid at a town hall meeting because the reenactors were going to stand outside in the snow all night reenacting the legendary Stars Hollow Battle? Taylor spearheaded the entire enactment because, well, he’s Taylor and Taylor has a hand in all things Stars Hollow. The reason Luke was irate was because he claimed nothing ever happened that night. The “battle” was actually just some soldiers anticipating a conflict that never actually occurred.
That storyline pretty accurately describes the gist of our visit to Lipantitlan State Historic Site in early September 2018. According to the website, there was a fort in the area once upon a time constructed by Mexican forces in anticipation of conflict with Anglos. A few years later, the Mexican forces surrendered it to Texan forces without even a single shot being fired, which reads like a pretty mild interaction. A handful of years later, some Texas volunteers camped in the area. Fast-forward a few more years and some troops passed through the area.
Really and truly, this seems to be the crux of the situation at LSHS. Something at one point stood somewhere in the vicinity to protect against something they thought would happen. And oh, some people passed through here, too.
I love visiting historic sites. History is my jam. I gotta say, this seems more of an historical marker thing than anything else. There is not a single building. There is one sign (see photo below) & a loop driving around a small grassy area with remnants of something that is not labeled either at the site or online. That’s it.
We’ve been to some small State Parks and Historic Sites, but this one here? This one needs us.
Why We Love Lipantitlan State Historic Site
History. A “wooden picket fort” stood somewhere around here in the 1800’s. Some troops passed through after it was surrendered without a gunshot. If you’re into research, I recommend volunteering your time and passion in helping the Texas Parks & Wildlife Department turn this into a destination worth the drive.
Must Do’s
Volunteer. Go to the Texas Parks & Wildlife Department website and volunteer to help maintain the place, research it, or brainstorm ideas to help the visiting public know what they are seeing. This site is begging for a Park Interpreter.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Lipantitlan State Historic Site! Please share your thoughts on this Gilmore Girls-inspired site in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site is as unique to visit as the Lone Star State is itself! Located along the mighty Brazos River, Washington-on-the-Brazos is a historical complex that serves its visitors a heaping helping of the serene beauty of the South Texas countryside alongside a smorgasbord of opportunities that nourish both the mind and the body.
The Manling and I devoured every moment of our half-day exploration of WotBSHS in August 2018. We got our bearings at the Visitor Services Complex where Park Staffer Mary (with the most beautiful eyes!) gave us the lowdown on all of the must-see-and-do activities during our visit.
With an hour before our first tour, we heeded Mary’s advice and headed toward the Old Washington Town Site Loop Trail (say that three times fast!) and meandered down a beautifully wide path toward the Brazos River…
…catching no glimpses of it until…
…we reached the Scenic Overlook, which was kind of on the wild side. There, we read a lot of signage (see below) that gave us a pretty good overview of the importance of the site. I won’t go into detail because I hate spoilers, but suffice it to say, WotB brought it’s A-game in educational pursuits.
We left the blissful shade of the trail and the Overlook to head up this trail – once an ancient roadway – reading the signage along the way that taught us even more Texas history. There was even a tree that witnessed the events of Texas history covered at the park. Yeah, it’s that old!
We made our way back to the Visitor Services Complex just in time for a quick pit stop before we headed out on a walking tour with Adam Arnold, who has obviously found his calling as a Park Ranger at WotB, with family lines that traced all the way back to…well, someone of significance, but I cannot remember who exactly. But I remember one of our fellow visitors on the tour being duly impressed, so I followed along.
Our tour guide Adam passed out what he termed period-appropriate air conditioners like the one he was holding since it was a hundred degrees during our tour in August. Thanks for doing us a solid, man!
When our outstanding guided tour ended (TRULY a Must-Do with Adam!), we headed back to the nearby Visitor Services Complex to try our hand at the Scavenger Hunt.
For time and financial reasons, we decided to skip the Star of the Republic Museum on this visit. Instead, we headed next to the Barrington Living History Farm. The BLHF was originally located about six miles from its current site where the last President of the Republic of Texas lived in it. The delightful lady that checked us in at the HQ there told us as we headed toward this –
“…When you walk over that bridge, you’ll be in the 1850’s.”
Never ones to miss an opportunity to time travel (and current über fans of NBC’s Timeless), we hastily crossed said bridge, safely navigating whatever time vortex there that made the trip possible.
And then we saw this cow. This 1850’s cow. Which looked a lot like cows in the 2018’s.
Ahead on the path, we saw a house to the left…
…and some out buildings to the right. We went right because, honestly, I’m a sucker for country living and pioneer America is my love language, so off we went to explore the barn, the animals, and what ended up being the slaves’ quarters.
Lastly, we visited the main house where we encountered a lady from the 1850’s whose speech was somewhat awkward to our ears as we weaved in and out of the downstairs rooms of the dog trot style house. We were encouraged – okay, the kids in a separate group were encouraged, but we heard it as we were invited to join – in doing some household chores like washing clothes and hanging them to dry; play checkers on the porch; or catch grasshoppers to throw to the chickens. We did the last one and had the kids in that other group enraptured even though the chickens were a bit on the dim-witted side and 100% of the grasshoppers made it out of the chicken yard unscathed.
Once we exhausted our explorations in the wee patch of 1850’s that is Barrington Living History Farm, we headed back over the portal to the 2018’s (a.k.a. the bridge), back to the modern convenience of true air conditioning inside the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside), and on to our next adventure.
Why We Love Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site
Guided Tours. Anything Adam Arnold does. Seriously. We threw question after question at him and he remained unfazed. That man is a treasure to the park. Sit yourself under his wing for 45 minutes to an hour and soak up some Texas history.
Old Washington Town Site Loop Trail. Read the signage along the way. Listen to the Brazos River. Imagine yourself in the shoes of those who came before you.
Barrington Living History Farm. Travel back to the 1850’s. It’s priceless! Just know it will be hard to come back.
Must Do’s
An Adam Arnold Tour. See #1 above.
Old Washington Town Site Loop Trail. See #2 above.
Barrington Living History Farm. See #3 above.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site! Please share your experiences at this vintage State Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
By the time we visited Stephen F. Austin State Park, we knew the drill. There would be closures in the park due to Hurricane Harvey. We were prepped for that. We adjusted our expectations prior to arrival. We were ready to embrace whatever opportunities awaited us, and with that cranial approach, our visit to SFASP was a surprisingly pleasant experience!
I say surprisingly because the river portion of the park was closed, which meant no fishing, and like I have stated before, The Manling is happiest when he can drop a line in the water. But…
After talking with the most outgoing Park Ranger we’ve encountered to date – seriously, Bryan was super enthusiastic, a lover of birds and edible plants, and just so happened to know his park backwards and forwards, so he completely hooked us up with some stellar hikes in his breathtakingly beautiful park – we headed to our first stop.
I’ll never look at trees “dripping” with something in the same romantic way. Ever again. Seriously.
The Barred Owl Trail was a compact dirt trail through towering trees draped with what The Manling thought was called Grandfather’s Beard (which he pointed out was Tick Paradise, which maybe wasn’t what I especially wanted to hear in the moment. “And it’s good as a fire starter, too.” Okay, then. That info will come in handy if we need to send smoke signals once the ticks descend upon us en masse.) Within the first five minutes on the Barred Owl Trail, we heard a massive flutter overhead. Looking up, we were shocked to see an actual Barred Owl taking flight! Owls being a favorite of The Manling, he thrilled at being able to see one so up close while my prevailing thought was What an aptly named trail! closely followed by We’re definitely not going on the Copperhead Trail then!
We continued on that wide trail to the Scenic Overlook, which was the closest we got to the Brazos River. It was both beautiful to behold and sobering to see the destructive potential that rivers bear on the areas surrounding them.
Our next stop was the Amphitheater, where we parked the car for our hike on the Opossum Loop, which sounded like a way less sinister trail than the aforementioned Copperhead Trail (which Bryan suggested would be a great hike for us to explore, but I was not having that name in the HQ, and even less so once we encountered the Barred Owl on the Barred Owl Trail). Park Ranger Bryan pointed out that the Opossum Trail featured 100′ tall cottonwood trees draped in vines that were a definite must-see, and he was right. They were magnificent and majestic and exquisite and stunning. I got a little turned around with the map and directions in general while we were on that looped trail, but thankfully I had an Eagle Scout with me so I was able to just enjoy the sights and sounds while he navigated us back to the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside).
Look how utterly inviting the path looks as The Manling directs our steps into the blessed shade of those towering trees. Delightful!
I’m pretty sure this guy was stalking us.
Seriously the most serene, easy to follow trails through beautiful towering trees. SFASP knows how to do trails.
One more thing I want to point out is the fact that SFASP has the most adorable log cabin-type shelters in the existence of log cabin-type shelters. It totally looked like something out of pioneer America and if, by chance or plan, you find yourself in the area, I would highly recommend staying in their Log Cabin-inspired Tiny House Community. They would make such an adorable addition to your memory-making moments. Trust me.
See what I mean?
They are so adorable it almost hurts!
Why We Love Stephen F. Austin State Park
Log Cabin Tiny House Village. Go back and look at the pics. Adorable, right? You can’t help but want to make those a part of your memories at SFASP.
Aptly Named Trails. How often have you hiked a trail and thought, Why’d they name the trail that? I didn’t see anything but this. Amiright? We saw a Barred Owl on the Barred Owl Trail. Which leads me to believe the Sycamore Trail has Sycamore Trees; the Opossum Trail has opossum; and that Copperhead Trail has (gulp!) copperheads. There are maybe about 6 miles of trail in the park, broken down into very doable loops or one-ways that are very well maintained. Enjoy exploring them!
Bryan. This guy has information in spades stored in his noggin. Use him. He was a wealth of information, super friendly, and he made our adventure sound like so much fun I asked him to join us! (He actually wished he could, but he was training a new recruit that day.)
Must Do’s
Stay. Tiny Log Cabin Village. How can you not?! They also have camping, RV spots, a cabin, and group barracks. I’m partial to the pioneering-type shelters, but you do you.
Hike. The trails are all manageable lengths for most anybody. The longest trail is only 1.25 miles and it’s marked as Easy. Get out there and explore, especially the Barred Owl Trail and the Opossum Loop.
Talk to Bryan. He’s your man for all things SFASP-related. And if you really want to speak his language, ask him about birds or edible plants.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Stephen F. Austin State Park! Please share your thoughts on this magnificent park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
The Manling and I visited Abilene State Park in July 2018. It was our first visit to this gem, even though it is only three hours from our home in North Texas. En route, I hunkered down for some alone time in my favorite space – my head – while The Manling reposed in the passenger seat of the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside). As the road changed from interstate to a two-lane road, the scenery morphed. I exchanged the flat expanses of I-20 for sublime roads more akin to roller-coaster tracks filled with hills, valleys, twists, and turns. No longer was I staring across level fields of wind turbines. I was now delightedly driving through miles and miles of them as I wound my way ever closer to Abilene State Park.
The Manling had been awake all of 60 seconds when we snapped our entry selfie. God bless him.
While registering our visit with the Park Staff upon arrival, we chatted both of them up about their park, attempting to extract from each what they personally considered top notch V.I.P. experiences within ASP. Their suggestions combined with the plethora of activities listed on the website greased the wheels of my imagination for a fall camp out with friends, from which the gears have continued to spin. From this ceaseless planning, I have created:
Abilene State Park’s Top 10 Activities for Every Person on the Planet
10. Swimming. Open during the summer, ASP offers park goers a ginormous swimming pool, a smaller wading pool, tons of seating, and even shaded lounge chairs to make for an epic poolside day of fun in the sun (or shade). The perfect cure for the Texas summer heat.
9. Bird Blind. Lots of State Parks provide special areas for guests to enjoy the sights and sounds of their winged visitors, but ASP went a step beyond with their bird blind. We could actually hear the wings of several hummingbirds from our vantage point, as well as the happy chirping and singing of several other varieties of birds visiting their favorite, shaded, protected watering hole. Delightful!
8. Horseshoes. Nestled under glorious shade trees near the pool and beautiful CCC-constructed water tower are actual horseshoe pits! As in, good ol’ fashioned fun from yesteryear!
7. Kayak/Canoe Rental. Rentals are available in the park’s HQ for kayaks and canoes, a fun way to explore Lake Abilene during your visit.
6. Team Building Game(s). Sand volleyball. Soccer. Baseball. Kickball. There’s space for all of these fun team building games at ASP! Grab some friends and bond over a competitive sport…or two!
5. Fishing. There is a pond on the HQ side of the park, but there’s a lake across the road surrounded by the beautiful rolling hills of the Callahan Divide. The whole time you’re fishing, you’ve got the sneaking suspicion that you are actually somehow fishing on the planet Mars with the beautiful orange terra firma beneath your feet.
4. Trails. With around five miles of them, you could legitimately see the entire park by foot over the course of a weekend. Some are bike-accessible, too! The ones we trekked on our visit were beautiful with canopied trees, lush undergrowth, and a variety of birds providing an enjoyable soundtrack while we explored.
3. Sunset. Lake Abilene at sunset. Trust me.
2. Geocaching. There were a few free geocaches within the park and I have to give kudos to the brilliant blokes that hid them. They were FANTASTIC! I may sound like a broken record, but geocaching is the best way to explore a new area. Download the free app and go have fun modern-day treasure hunting!
1. Staying. This is number one because of the variety of wonderful, picturesque, and one-of-a-kind accommodations available at ASP.
Tent camping? yes
RV camping? yes
Lakeside Cabin? yes
Tiny House Village? yes (a.k.a. shelters, but they look like an adorable tiny house village set underneath the trees!)
YURTS? oh my, yes! (Sign me up for an overnighter in a bona fide yurt complete with beds and an a/c, please!)
Why We Love Abilene State Park
Location. I mentioned driving through miles and miles of twisty-turny, up-and-down roads through the towering wind turbines en route to ASP. When we left, we were treated to the likes of Buffalo Gap, a precious little piece of ‘Merica that will make you want to listen to Lee Greenwood sing “Proud to be an American” on a loop while you explore it via the geocache method of tourism.
Variety of Activities. Boating. Swimming. Horseshoes. Team Sports. Fishing. Hiking. Biking. Bird Watching. Geocaching. Exploring. It’s all there for the taking, friend.
Accommodations. Yurts, people. Yurts with a/c. And if that isn’t enough, shelters that look like a Tiny House Village nestled under beautiful trees. If those are too primitive, there’s a legitimate Lake House Cabin. Or if you are so inclined to bring your own accommodations, the tent or RV sites are picture perfect.
Must Do’s
Um, see the above list.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Abilene State Park! Please share your experiences at this deliciously divertingState Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
First of all, the road to the parking lot of the Wyler Aerial Tramway could be kissing cousins to the Crookedest Street in the World in San Fransisco. It was steep from the very beginning with incredible switchbacks that made driving our two-door stick shift an off-the-charts kind of adventure. Kudos to the planners that engineered that paved piece of paradise!
Secondly, from the moment we got in line to ride the Tramway to the top of Ranger Peak, The Manling and I were treated like V.I.P.s. Those tiny little trams tote a great many people up and down Ranger Peak all the livelong day and in order to do that efficiently, they occasionally combine parties for the ride. Such was our case. Shortly after we joined the lengthening line to patiently wait our turn at the bottom, we heard a call for “any two-person parties” and quickly raised our hands. As we made our way forward, apologizing to the crowd, we were legitimately boo‘d. I think they were kidding, but if they weren’t, I totally get it. It was a thousand degrees and we were cheating the system that they had obediently followed. (Not only did we get to skip the line like V.I.P.’s on the way up, we also got to skip it on the way down – but I’ll tell you about that later. Wait for it.)
Even though we both suffer from a serious fear of heights, that ride up to Ranger Peak was spectacular. It was Standing Room Only in our tiny tram (because there is only one seat and it is reserved for the Tram Operator), which we shared with a sweet Grandma and her five young grand-minions. It was an ideal scenario, really, because everyone was so short-of-stature that we enjoyed 360 degree unimpeded views over their wee little heads (Grandma included).
Once at the top, we read all the signage in a quest to properly orient ourselves so we could fully appreciate our mile-high vantage point.
Mexico? Check.
Army base? Check.
Airport? Check.
This mountain? Check.
That mountain? Check.
Rio Grande? Check.
Border crossing? Check, check, and check.
Next, we made our way to the Souvenir Shop to get a Park Map because we, my friends, were planning to hike to the Crash Site. What Crash Site, you may ask? I have no idea, but it sounded like something that would happen in Roswell and that was just too cool for us to take a pass.
In order to do that, however, for the first time in my life, I had to get a bona fide hiking permit. The area the commoners are allowed to walk around at the top of Ranger Peak is small. And gated. Not really intended for extended visits. Kind of a treat-em-and-street-em scenario. You actually cannot physically touch the mountain while you’re on top of it because it’s all platform and souvenir shop and machinery…unless you secure hiking permits. And we had them. I confess that I was high on my own importance as we walked purposely toward the gate, threw it open, and boldly walked passed the RESTRICTED ACCESS sign and onward toward our adventure amid the wide-eyed stares of the more ordinary folk.
Now let me backtrack for a sec because Ranger Eddie (who, in my opinion, seemed unnecessarily concerned for our welfare at the time) drilled into us this important advice before we headed out on our 1-1.5 hour hike: take a lot more hydration with you than you figure you’ll need, and constantly orient yourself via the Tram Stop at the top of Ranger Peak. Do those two things, and you should be a-ok. Oh! And watch your footing, so I guess three things. Seeing as our surplus of water was back down in the parking lot in the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside), we concluded we had enough in our packs for such a short hike. After all, Eddie didn’t know us, or our mad hiking skills.
I tucked the map into my back pack because WE GOT THIS, MAN. Plus, The Manling is an Eagle Scout and they know how to orienteer their way out of a black hole, so I was set to just enjoy the views and the company for the next hour or so.
The beginning of the trail was a series of descents to where the trail actually evened out, more or less, as it encircled Ranger Peak. I was feeling pretty smug and superior as we alone made our way along the trail Ranger Eddie had pointed out from the the Tram Stop above.
Yeah. Real climbing went on to get to the mostly even trail shown in the next pic.
This right here. This is what Ranger Eddie pointed out to us from above – a nice, obvious path. What could go wrong?
I was also beginning to feel lightheaded. The cure, I discovered, was to look at the ground a few feet in front of my feet, so that is how we made our way around the mountain, Jesse in front talking and navigating us while I brought up the rear, head angled down. Occasionally we stopped so that I could take in the view or snap some pics, but for the most part, we continued toward the Crash Site Overlook in this fashion until…
I looked up and realized we were almost to Guardhouse #2. Which is on a different trail altogether. The Tram Stop – that was suppose to faithfully remain to our right en route to the overlook – was now directly behind us. My shoulders sagged a little, remembering that this was what Ranger Eddie had warned us not to let happen. Sigh.
After a quick call to Ranger Eddie in the Souvenir Shop, we retraced our steps back up the mountain, searching for the signage that would direct us back onto the proper trail and sucking down a lot of water in the process because mountain climbing in the July afternoon heat in West Texas is dehydrating, to say the least. Eventually we spotted this –
Yo, Eagle Scout. How did you not see this sign? “I was enjoying the view.”
– at which point I may have collapsed to give my shaking legs a much-needed break from the vertical climb while I sucked down even more H2O, and, at which point, The Manling informed me that we were on our last two bottles. Drats! We both knew we could not make it to the Crash Site Overlook on the water left in those two bottles, not if we planned to make the return trip. Reluctantly, and with heads hanging a little lower in disappointment, we began the slow hike back to the top of the peak.
I’m going to spare you the long and arduous return trip except to say that we lost the trail THREE. TIMES. Yes, THREE more times we climbed up higher than we should have before retracing our steps back down, or we went lower than we should have before having to reclimb our way back up to the trail, and we only had that scant amount of water left and at this rate, we were surely not going to make it back unassisted, so eventually my feels about all of this had to come out and I cried – A LOT! – which may have exasperated The Manling because he doesn’t yet know how to process a grown woman crying out in despair.
At one point I asked The Manling to please, please, please say something to encourage me. “How about one of those verses you learned in AWANA? Gimme something to hold on to!” He paused and then said, “Even though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil…” to which I replied, “No! No! No! Not that one! I was thinking something along the lines of ‘I can do all things through Christ Who strengthens me or something!'” to which he replied, “Well, that was the only one I could think of right now.”
I remember at one point trying to calculate how much it would cost The Man if we had to have a helicopter rescue off that mountainside because I felt like I literally could not climb one more step.
And, to add insult to injury, I felt like I was about to hurl!
Eventually, my shaking legs did make it back to the top and they somehow deposited me into the air conditioned Souvenir Shop where I unceremoniously claimed a spot on the floor by the collector’s coin machine that takes a penny and smooshes it with an “engraving” of the place you’re visiting, at which point a Park Staffer (Nicole) came to render me aid. After getting cold, wet towels on important places on my body to help lower my internal temperature, Nicole called down to the bottom to have the snap towel in the freezer brought up on the next gondola for me. While she was doing this, The Manling bought me a pretty gargantuan-sized Gatorade – on his own dime.
Did I mention I was wearing all black while we hiked in 100+ degree heat, including running tights?
Eventually, and after everyone was satisfied that I could walk to the gondola unassisted, I was escorted to the front of the line for the second time that day. And you know that one seat that was reserved for the Tram operator? He gave it to V.I.P. me.
Why We Love Wyler Aerial Tramway State Park
Gondola. Those things are so cool! It takes about four minutes each way, but they are four very thrilling minutes! The Tram Operator directs your attention to various sights and cool information like the fact that both trams go at the same speed, but the other one will always appear faster. This ride is well worth the cost of admission.
Views. There is signage all around the viewing deck at the top of Ranger Peak that helps you discern where certain things are located. Like Mexico. Pretty cool! And being a mile high, there’s a lot to see up there!
Park Staff. Bless ’em, one and all. From Eddie talking to us about the serious nature of hiking in the heat around his mountain to Nicole swiftly rendering me aid to the Tram Operator who yielded his seat, they are all top notch in my book.
Trails. Man o man, do they ever have some doozies at WAT! There is one that even starts at the parking lot and climbs ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP. That’s some serious climbing! There are others that wind their way around the mountain, like the one we attempted. Word to the wise – the trails are loose rock on a rock mountain. Very tricky with the footing in a lot of spots. Wear grippy shoes and for the love of all things good, carry a TON of water.
Must Do’s
Tram Ride. Keep your cameras ready, this is a truly great experience and you’ll want to capture some of it on film. Plus, it’s the sole way to get to the top and those fantastic views, unless you plan to climb.
Hike. Please don’t let our experience dissuade you from some truly remarkable trails with unbelievable views because the next time we are in West Texas, we’re trying that trail to the Crash Site Overlook again. It was one of the best we’ve experienced, even though we didn’t conquer it!
Hydrate. Pack more water than you think you’ll need. And then double it. Truly, don’t suffer heat-related issues on the mountain. Take a ton of water with you. Just trust me on this one.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Wyler Aerial Tramway State Park! Please share your experiences at this mile high State Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
The Manling and I agree – Hueco Tanks has the best entrance photo opp of all of the parks we have seen, thus far. And this is technically before you even enter the state park proper! Once you enter, it’s a whole different level of awesome at Hueco Tanks State Park & Historic Site! But I’m getting ahead of myself in my enthusiasm to share our experience. Forgive me.
First stop once you enter the park is obviously the HQ to register your vehicle with the Park Staff at which time you will learn that there is a mandatory video for all park visitors before you can explore the park. Let me silence your groans by saying, it is a very engaging video. Super informative and even if you could skip it, I wouldn’t recommend that route because we learned so much in such a short period of time because of that mandatory video. Like, how to pronounce Hueco Tanks. What Hueco Tanks are. The history of the pictographs and graffiti in the park, and so on.
HTSP&HS is all about two things: history, and rock climbing. We were eager to start both, so once the educational video was done, we headed toward the big attraction – the boulders. You see, HTSP&HS isn’t a mountain. There are plenty of those. One of the things that you immediately notice about HTSP&HS as you drive toward it is that it looks like a collection of rocks, all stacked as if the Jolly Green Giant had been collecting them and was called away suddenly, leaving them in a giant pile. And as such, they beg to be explored!
Most of the trails are in full West Texas sun, which is abominably hot in July. The few shaded portions like this one are Godsends.
The paths are also well marked and maintained, which is good because there is no off-path exploration allowed.
There were different sites that skirted the North “Mountain” at ground level, which was the only portion of the park visitors were allowed to access without a guide, and we visited just about all of them. Unfortunately, we didn’t notice much more than graffiti. Definitely nothing discernible as original cave paintings to our untrained eyes. After looking for over an hour, we reluctantly gave up the search for these historical leavings in the searing heat of mid-afternoon. Deciding then would be the perfect time to climb rocks that had been baking in the early afternoon sun, we headed up the North “Mountain” for some bouldering fun.
Use the chain railing provided in the steeper parts. Losing your footing on the boulders would ruin your day. I know because I didn’t see them until our descent.
The Manling graciously gave me some “privacy” to compose my “feels” by looking in the opposite direction when I began to groan about every ache and pain my geriatric body was experiencing up the boulders. The sight of those cooler temps rolling our way did a lot to wash away my angst.
Two things happened on our ascent: 1) I had a mini-meltdown because it was way harder than it looked to climb those boulders, especially not having seen the handy-dandy rails to aid said climb of the steeper sections, and I was just trying to keep up with The Manling (who is in the prime of his youth) while I was carrying an umbrella to serve as both a piece of portable shade and an anti-snake device and, of course, my phone so that I could photo-document our experience; and 2) a glorious summer thunderstorm began brewing just to the west of us (see photo above) which provided the exact amount of cooler temps and refreshing breezes needed to galvanize me for the remainder of the climb. Seriously, it was just what the doctor ordered, those winds.
Eventually we made it to the top, which reminded me of that little bit of oasis from the end of the movie HOLES. We explored and enjoyed the wind and cooler temps it brought with it before we headed back down the boulders, this time with the aid of the blessed chain rails.
We headed back to the Interpretive Center to make sure we’d explored all we were going to explore on their humongous 3D terrain map thing since we still hadn’t spotted the famed cave paintings, when we met Charlie the Intern who took pity on our fruitless searching and ended up treating us to an impromptu personal tour behind the Interpretive Center.
I spy time! Even with Charlie the Intern pointing it out, do you see anything? We didn’t either.
I confess, we still saw nothing until Charlie the Intern pointed them out to us. Some of them were so light as to be barely discernible, but Charlie the Intern had a great $20 app on his phone that changed the resolution of photos and once he took a photo and manipulated it so that we knew what we were looking for, it felt like one of those Magic Eye stereogram moments that were all the rage in the 90’s. We finally saw them!
Make sure to climb up the overhang to the right in order to see the pictographs further in the back like The Manling did with Charlie the Intern.
After Charlie the Intern schooled us on what we were looking for, we retraced our steps to Site 17 and all that we had discounted earlier as just graffiti (which has been a problem in the park), became clearer to us. (Essentially, it boils down to this – There are the original cave paintings done many, many years ago. Then there are “engravings” that some disgruntled cowboys did in the last century on top of some of them. And there are also places that have been graffitied in more recent years. You can read more on the park’s History page.)
The off-white lines that look like a rib cage? That is the original cave painting. The name and date is the engraving done into the rock on top of the originals by a disgruntled Francisco, according to my understanding. Tsk, tsk, Francisco. You’re better than that.
While fascinating to see the names and dates, those are (again) meant to deface the original cave paintings by cowboys with attitude.
Look carefully. That is a cave painting, though honestly I have no idea of what. A snake maybe? A braid of gray hair?
This one I like. It’s a snake. Well, I don’t like snakes, but I like that I can see this one and discern what it is.
Close up of the HORSE cave painting that Mr. Wayland defaced in 1884. Bad form, MF.
Why We Love Hueco Tanks State Park
History. I’m a sucker for some history and Hueco Tanks has it in spades. Start in the Interpretive Center so you understand the history of the place before setting out for some first-hand experiences with yesteryear. Be patient. It may take a little longer to find yesteryear, but that makes the finding of it all the sweeter.
Rock Climbing/Bouldering. Yes, please! We had an amazing time bouldering the North “Mountain” on our visit. Definitely would be difficult for those with physical limitations (as in, I honestly can’t fathom how it would be accomplished) and personally, I would be a little hesitant to take kids up to the oasis because of the steep parts of the climb.
Staff. The Park Staff from the HQ to the Interpretive Center to Charlie the Intern were all experts in making our visit phenomenal.
Opportunity. While the North “Mountain” is accessible for self-guided tours, the East & West “Mountains” are accessible for those with guides. The guides at the time of our visit charged a very nominal fee per person and there is a link on the website for scheduling those in advance. Likewise, you can boulder til the cows come home on the North “Mountain,” but to rock climb you need the help of professionals, which the website also hooks you up with. Check out both of those opportunities here.
Must Do’s
Mandatory Video. Hello? It’s mandatory, so obviously you must do it. But it’s totally worth a few minutes of your time. Trust me.
Boulder. Be smart and use the chain rails in the steep areas. They are there. Find them and use them. I could have avoided my mini-meltdown had I done that. These rocks provide some excellent bouldering opportunities!
Explore. Make sure you spend time at Site 17 as well as the cave behind the Interpretive Center. Climb the ledge. Sit a spell. Take in the history you’re witnessing. See if you can discern a story or theme. It’s historically awesome!
Hike. The trails are basically flat, short walks. They are wide, well-marked, and easily traveled. But take an umbrella for shade because it gets hot as Hades in the full sun.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Hueco Tanks State Park & Historic Site! Please share your experiences at this rockin’ State Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
We included Davis Mountains State Park on our trip to West Texas in July 2018 for the glorious fact that the nighttime temps during the summer months dip into the lower 60’s and the daytime highs are only in the 90’s, which is completely hospitable weather for tent camping in Texas during the summer!
This spot reminded me of Bonanza for some reason.
A scenic overlook en route to the McDonald Observatory a few miles away from DMSP.
Heading into the Davis Mountains on the quaint, two-lane SH-17 is nothing short of giddy bliss, dear reader. Mile upon mile of twisty, turny roads through mountain passes as you gently ascend and descend, climbing steadily higher toward more hospitable temps and ever-increasing scenic views that comprise the lovely – nay, awesome! – beauty that is the Davis Mountains. If one can form an emotional attachment to a location akin to love at first sight, then The Manling and I had that in spades as we drove through the Davis Mountains to the State Park that would be our home for the next 24 glorious hours.
We entered the HQ completely enraptured! I think I caught a glimpse of big red hearts in The Manling’s eyes as he registered us with the Park Staff and we secured a primo campsite right next to the creek (site 81 – secluded, shaded, mountain views, mere feet from the {dry} creek bed). Summer love happens fast, my friends, and we were head over heels before we’d even left the HQ.
After pitching our tents – and allow me to detour here to boast that Mama pitched her very own tent. For the first time. In her life. And set up her own cot. So, I was feeling pretty high on life as we sat on our camping chairs in the cool shade of our awesome camp site, sipping our refreshing H2O in full view of my colossal achievements and feasting on the gorgeous Davis Mountains scenery –
The Maning and I kicked back to discuss the array of wildlife that called the Davis Mountains home, during which I attempted to act all cool about the possibility of seeing snakes, mountain lions, and javalina.
– for a while before heading up the Scenic Drive in the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside) to enjoy the various overlooks. We were eager to explore and gain a bird’s eye view of this majestic place we got to {temporarily} call home. By the time we were at the last overlook (where Scenic Drive dead ends at the park’s boundary), we heard the faint, but very distinct sound of a bugle playing a familiar tune. Intrigued, we decided to explore the tiny town that we saw at the foot of the peak. After all, we seldom have down time on our Texans Travel road trips to explore past the boundaries of the State Parks and on this particular trip, we did!
We explored much of Fort Davis on foot while we geocached the laid back, drive-through town, stopping at one place in particular –
This thrift store off the main road in town benefitted the same rescue agency that brought homeless dogs to the state park for a weekly hike.
– because another draw for us to DMSP was their “Hike with a Homeless Dog” the following morning. Dog lovers that we are, this activity listed on the park’s event page was irresistible to us.
Another stop we made was to this place, reputed among the locals as having the best salad bar, burgers, floats, and the like in the area.
Yes, we ate in a drugstore. And loved every minute of it!
Tummies nicely satisfied, we sat outside on the bench a spell to take in the irresistible charm of this precious small town, an idyllic setting for the next great American novel, before heading back home in time to catch the sun set in the bewitching Davis Mountains. (Ahhhh, that has such a nice ring to it, home in the Davis Mountains.)
On our first exploration of the peaks within the park, we discovered some rock sculptures lovingly left for our enjoyment by previous visitors. We are intrigued by these 3D art installations because on our trips to Llano, Texas, the month before, we discovered dozens and dozens of these in the city park. No explanations. Just the sculptures all over the place.
The two little beauties that greeted us on the first of many trips up to the first Scenic Overlook.
When we returned to the first Scenic Overlook a few hours later, prepped for a spectacular sunset, we discovered that something had demolished the sculptures in a “Leave No Trace” thoroughness that was a tad on the disheartening side. With nothing but time on our hands until the Big Show, we decided to make one of our own. I collected rocks of all sizes and shapes while The Manling got to work on our sculpture. Our labor of love provided interest to fellow park-goers as they trekked to the overlook to join us for sunset, some stopping to take photos of our masterpiece. It was all very gratifying. Before we knew it, it was time for the Big Show.
The sunset was so spectacular that we decided to catch it’s debut the next morning from a different spot, one perched atop the cool CCC structure that is designated on the Park Map as the middle overlook on Scenic Drive.
The Tiny Toyota Tardis enjoyed the view, too.
Afterward, we {reluctantly} broke camp – props to this Mom who broke down her own tent and cot for the first time, in the history of ever – ate a simple breakfast of trail bars with caffeinated peach tea, and then headed over to the Interpretive Center for the pièce de résistance – our much anticipated Hike with a Homeless Dog, a cooperative event offered at DMSP with Grand Companions in Fort Davis, a no-kill animal shelter all about giving dogs who are down on their luck second chances.
While we liked the hike with the pooches immensely, we loved the interaction with DMSP Interpreter, Ty, and the lovely intern, Erica. Not only did they share a wealth of information on an area that had already quickly captured our hearts, they shared some of themselves as I inadvertently grilled them on the life choices that led to their career decisions to work within the Texas State Parks. (You’re welcome, Manling.)
These two. We loved getting to know you, Ty and Erica. (FYI, they let us know they are not a couple.)
Why We ABSOLUTELY Love Davis Mountains State Park
Mountains. So stinkin’ pretty!! I loved every square inch that I saw. This place may be in my retirement future. Fingers crossed.
Hospitable Temps. Y’all, they are so cute in the Davis Mountains with their heat advisories because it’s in the 90’s. The 90’s! On our way home, we saw several signs that read 112 and 113. Just sayin’. And in the lower 60’s at night. The Davis Mountains make tent camping a possibility in Texas during the summer!
Hiking. Trails up and down and all around the mountain peaks. Plus, the park will throw in some homeless dogs for you to share the experience with! I call that #winning.
Camping. Did I mention the hospitable temps? The Manling and I actually got COLD during the night. In Texas. During July. This is a phenomenon not to be missed. Get yourself there asap.
Staff. Ty and Erica were a wealth of information on careers in the Texas State Park, which I think would suit The Manling to a T. Additionally, Ty happens to be the guy that started the Ambassador Program geared toward connecting The Manling’s age demographic to parks all around the great state of Texas. Love!
Sunrise/Sunset. These are not-to-be-missed moments in DMSP. Get yourself up to the peaks for both. You won’t miss the sleep once the Big Shows start. I promise.
Must Do’s
Camp. In addition to getting down into the 60’s overnight, we had a few unforgettable critters visit our campsite during the night – a fox hung around The Manling’s tent; we had quite a few skunks walking around our campsite during the night (which sounded like they walked on 2 feet, interestingly enough!); flashlights flashed their lights all night long (which I later learned belonged to campers hoping for a glimpse of a king snake because they come out at night).
Sunrise/Sunset. This is mandatory. No excuses.
Fort Davis Drugstore. Get the salad bar. Grab a burger. Top it off with a shake. This place is precious.
Park Activity. Check out the Events Page like we did and join the Park Staff on an unforgettable adventure!
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Davis Mountains State Park! Please share your thoughts on this love-at-first-sight State Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
