Franklin Mountains State Park

We made four major memories at Franklin Mountains State Park when we visited in July 2018.

  1. We got lost. Waze, who had become our BFF on our West Texas Road Trip by navigating us through the middle of many nowheres for five days straight and diverting us around a parking lot situation on I-20 in Odessa on day one, kind of let us down on the day we pointed the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside) toward El Paso’s Franklin Mountains by not intuitively knowing we meant the Tom Mays part of the park. On the flip side, she did get us to the HQ, which hooked us up with the likes of Erika the Office Manager and Ranger X (for Xavier – how cool is that?!) and they not only showed us how to get to the part of the park that we wanted, they also talked us through some great options once we got there. So, serendipity. (To aid you in your adventure, use this address in your map app – “Tom Mays Park Access Road” – to get to where the adventure is in Franklin Mountains State Park. It’s on the opposite side of the mountain from the HQ.)

    FMSP is serious about mountain biking, offering a fix-it station at the Beginner’s Loop!
  2. We mountain biked. I mean, we had burdened the Tiny Toyota Tardis with a heavy bike rack, our bikes, and The Manling’s fishing gear for days of driving up and down mountains, along rough dirt roads, across jarring cattle grates, and through stop-and-go big city traffic. And now, now we were finally getting to use them! Ranger X suggested the Beginner’s Loop to test our skills (because it was the most level), so that was our first stop. We figured we’d get a taste for what we were in for before we progressed to the more advanced trails. Ranger X did us a solid. The Beginner Loop is no joke, people. It was a barely discernible, teeny-tiny, twisty-turny trail through sharp cactus and over even sharper loose rock that caused us to skid and slide our way around it until I popped my chain. Twice. And got a flat. Back at the car thirty minutes later, we felt like we’d had a proper sampling of what mountain biking in West Texas was like and we were good. As in, done.
    We paused at the entrance to the Beginner’s Loop to take in the spectacular view of the Franklin Mountains. Note: The beginning is the only wide portion of the trail you’ll see.

    The Beginner’s Loop was the most level of all the trails, but it was a narrow, slippery ride that left me questioning my mountain biking prowess.
  3. We hiked. We headed to the various trail heads next to get a sense of which one(s) we would tackle in the nearly-noon heat. Ranger X suggested we check out the Aztec Caves Trail or the Cottonwood Spring Trail. After a quick drive by of both, the Manling was feeling the Cottonwood Spring Trail. Since he was already feeling the effects of the heat from our mountain bike ride on the Beginner’s Loop, I just went with it, no questions asked. Long story short, we never made it to the lone cottonwood perched up on the rocky mountain’s side, clearly visible from the parking lot. And also clearly farther away than it looked, especially in temps that soared above 100 degrees. We made it about halfway before deciding that even if we continuously chugged the rest of our electrolyte-filled waters, that would not be enough to replenish our bodies for the remainder of the hike. We reluctantly retraced our steps back to the parking lot, the cold a/c of our vehicle, and drown our defeat in still more electrolytes in an attempt to recover from #4.
    Heading up the rocky Cottonwood Spring Trail full of hopes and dreams

    And heading back down the rocky Cottonwood Spring Trail, dehydrated and deflated
  4. We suffered heat-related exhaustion. I don’t know how we could have prepped for a better outcome because we sucked down electrolytes all the livelong day like we were doing a paid endorsement, and we make sure our foodstuffs provided prime nourishment for our bodies so that they would be up to the tasks we asked said bodies to do. Maybe it was the time of day. Maybe it was the over 100 degree temps. Maybe it was the dry, West Texas heat. I don’t know. All I have to share is this, Be Aware. Heat exhaustion is real. When you go out and about and start to feel yourself struggle, Go Back. Live to adventure another day, my friend.

Why We Love Franklin Mountains State Park

  1. Mountain Biking. If this is your thing, go for it! In my opinion, the trails are for experienced mountain bikers, including the Beginner’s Loop. Word to the wise – bring extra tubes because the rocks and cactus are sharp. You’ll need ’em.
  2. Hiking. Excellent trails like the Cottonwood Spring and Aztec Caves await you. One thing I really liked and would make me return is that we never made it to our destinations. And you can see the caves as a gaping hole in the mountain from the parking lot and that kind of is an irresistible draw. Same for the Cottonwood Spring – you can see one, lone Cottonwood on the side of the mountain and you just HAVE to go to it. Wear good shoes. And drink plenty of electrolytes.
  3. Park Staff. Office Manager Erika, Ranger X, and Ranger Geoff (whom we met in the Beginner’s Loop parking lot) were all top-notch human beings. Make sure to meet them and take advantage of their knowledge of the park to help plan your adventure in it.
  4. Mountain Pass. Make sure you mistakenly start at the HQ so that you can ensure the drive through the Franklin Mountains pass, which was fun and beautiful and a little humbling when your car is struggling to the top, but totally worth it.

Must Do’s

  • Trails. They have long trails, short trails, bike trails, foot trails, even trails, steep trails. They have all of the kinds of trails you could imagine at FMSP. Go explore!
  • Hydrate. Talk to the Park Staff before your visit for suggestions on how to not have to cut your trip short like we did. It is seriously hot. And it is seriously dangerous to under-prepare. Educate yourselves before you go.

We’d love to hear about your experiences at Franklin Mountains State Park! Please share your experiences at this hot-to-trot State Park in the comments.

*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.

Colorado Bend State Park

The Manling has been looking forward to visiting Colorado Bend State Park for years! We finally made this trip a reality when we visited in early June 2018. I must confess that I was taken aback when we arrived and were greeted by the friendly park ranger at the self-pay entrance. When I inquired of said ranger if snakes really were in the park, I was told in no uncertain terms that they were. (I credit him for his sobering honesty in the face of my fearful, well…face.)

With the park trail map in hand (complete with a huge rattlesnake as clip art), we set out on the sarcastically long, slow drive from the entrance to the HQ, which is located at the river end of the park. During that long drive, my blood pressure rose, my breathing became more labored and I had all but talked myself out of getting out of the car, much less hiking to see the famed Gorman Falls, a 2.5-3 hour hike that is suppose to be well worth it. I prayed for the courage not to disappoint The Manling as we entered the HQ (which could accurately be described as a tiny house, if it were larger). As we headed back to the car, I saw a Honda Pilot full of what looked to be adventuresome 20-somethings getting their water and applying sunscreen. “Excuse me,” I ventured. As they turned to look at me, I continued, “Are you by any chance going to hike to Gorman Falls right now?” When they replied that they were, I quickly asked, “Would you mind if my son and I tagged along with your group?” Relieved that they accepted us as add-ons to their adventure, we headed to the trailhead to Gorman Falls, unfortunately located back at the entrance to the park. As we set out on the unbelievably long, slow drive back to the entrance, I was relieved we had a bona-fide group with which to hike. Again, I prayed for courage – and I had time to because the drive was so long – and when we finally arrived at the trailhead, I found that I had the courage to get out of the car. And then to make small talk with our “new friends.” And then to make our way toward the other end of the parking lot, where we met a couple that was returning from their own adventure.

“How was it?” I asked. It was fantastic, they said. Cool. I think I may have even smiled.

“Did you see any wildlife?” I ventured. “Any snakes?”

Oh yeah! they answered enthusiastically. We saw a rattlesnake and a skunk on the trail.

My new friends, eager for the fun to begin, gave nods of approval and headed onto the trail with a wave. I saw my opportunity to face my biggest fear (and impress The Manling with my stout courage) literally walking away and before I knew it, I had caught up and was officially on one of the scariest hikes of my life.

I say one of the scariest hikes of my life because I just knew it was infested with rattlesnakes.  That is the park’s chosen clip art for their trails map, after all! I was certain the rattlesnakes were scheming some kind of elaborate assault at some point during the 2.5 hours we were in that feral wilderness. And it would be one of my two calves (out of the 16 available in our hiking party) that would be targeted.

When we made it to Gorman Falls unmolested by the rattlers, I was very happily surprised. And diverted. It is breathtaking! It honestly looks like a tropical rainforest plopped into the rocky dirt that is the predominant geological feature of the Hill Country as far as I can tell. We explored a little, took photos, got our feet wet in the Colorado River (see photo) and cooled off in the shade for probably half an hour.

When we headed back up the steep ascent to the trail, we actually ran into that same ranger from the entrance. Remembering us, he asked if we’d seen any rattlesnakes. “No, thankfully,” I answered. Our group chatted a short while with him before finishing the last leg of a gloriously uneventful hiking experience (read that as we neither saw nor heard a single rattler).

Why We Love Colorado Bend State Park

  1. Gorman Falls. I don’t know if it was the sense of accomplishment or relief in finally making it to the falls, but this was by far the very best part of our time at CBSP. It is beautiful. It is a blessed respite from the summer heat in Texas. It is a refreshing oasis in the desert. And while all my talk of rattlesnakes may give you pause to reconsider, I encourage you to allow yourself this amazing adventure. After all, my imagination was the only thing that actually scared me.*
  2. Water. The park is located on the Colorado River, contains a beautiful lush waterfall, and boasts natural springs, all of which serve to help cool off in the heat of the day. Perfection.

Must Do’s

  • Spicewood Springs. Waterholes in Texas in the summer heat. Priceless. (Full disclosure, by the time we were ready for this part of our park adventure, we were suffering from the over 100* heat and decided we would save it for next time. BUT…I think every person we met highly recommended them, so hydrate and make the hike to Spicewood Springs. I’m told it’s way easier than other hikes in the park.)
  • Gorman Falls. I am so glad I didn’t let my fear make me miss experiencing Gorman Falls. Do what you’ve gotta do (buy snake boots, tag-along with a group, suck it up, whatever), but don’t leave CBSP without seeing Gorman Falls in person.

We’d love to hear about your experiences at Colorado Bend State Park! Please share your thoughts on this untamed and untainted park in the comments.

*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.