Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site is as unique to visit as the Lone Star State is itself! Located along the mighty Brazos River, Washington-on-the-Brazos is a historical complex that serves its visitors a heaping helping of the serene beauty of the South Texas countryside alongside a smorgasbord of opportunities that nourish both the mind and the body.
The Manling and I devoured every moment of our half-day exploration of WotBSHS in August 2018. We got our bearings at the Visitor Services Complex where Park Staffer Mary (with the most beautiful eyes!) gave us the lowdown on all of the must-see-and-do activities during our visit.
With an hour before our first tour, we heeded Mary’s advice and headed toward the Old Washington Town Site Loop Trail (say that three times fast!) and meandered down a beautifully wide path toward the Brazos River…
…catching no glimpses of it until…
…we reached the Scenic Overlook, which was kind of on the wild side. There, we read a lot of signage (see below) that gave us a pretty good overview of the importance of the site. I won’t go into detail because I hate spoilers, but suffice it to say, WotB brought it’s A-game in educational pursuits.
We left the blissful shade of the trail and the Overlook to head up this trail – once an ancient roadway – reading the signage along the way that taught us even more Texas history. There was even a tree that witnessed the events of Texas history covered at the park. Yeah, it’s that old!
We made our way back to the Visitor Services Complex just in time for a quick pit stop before we headed out on a walking tour with Adam Arnold, who has obviously found his calling as a Park Ranger at WotB, with family lines that traced all the way back to…well, someone of significance, but I cannot remember who exactly. But I remember one of our fellow visitors on the tour being duly impressed, so I followed along.
Our tour guide Adam passed out what he termed period-appropriate air conditioners like the one he was holding since it was a hundred degrees during our tour in August. Thanks for doing us a solid, man!
When our outstanding guided tour ended (TRULY a Must-Do with Adam!), we headed back to the nearby Visitor Services Complex to try our hand at the Scavenger Hunt.
For time and financial reasons, we decided to skip the Star of the Republic Museum on this visit. Instead, we headed next to the Barrington Living History Farm. The BLHF was originally located about six miles from its current site where the last President of the Republic of Texas lived in it. The delightful lady that checked us in at the HQ there told us as we headed toward this –
“…When you walk over that bridge, you’ll be in the 1850’s.”
Never ones to miss an opportunity to time travel (and current über fans of NBC’s Timeless), we hastily crossed said bridge, safely navigating whatever time vortex there that made the trip possible.
And then we saw this cow. This 1850’s cow. Which looked a lot like cows in the 2018’s.
Ahead on the path, we saw a house to the left…
…and some out buildings to the right. We went right because, honestly, I’m a sucker for country living and pioneer America is my love language, so off we went to explore the barn, the animals, and what ended up being the slaves’ quarters.
Lastly, we visited the main house where we encountered a lady from the 1850’s whose speech was somewhat awkward to our ears as we weaved in and out of the downstairs rooms of the dog trot style house. We were encouraged – okay, the kids in a separate group were encouraged, but we heard it as we were invited to join – in doing some household chores like washing clothes and hanging them to dry; play checkers on the porch; or catch grasshoppers to throw to the chickens. We did the last one and had the kids in that other group enraptured even though the chickens were a bit on the dim-witted side and 100% of the grasshoppers made it out of the chicken yard unscathed.
Once we exhausted our explorations in the wee patch of 1850’s that is Barrington Living History Farm, we headed back over the portal to the 2018’s (a.k.a. the bridge), back to the modern convenience of true air conditioning inside the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside), and on to our next adventure.
Why We Love Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site
Guided Tours. Anything Adam Arnold does. Seriously. We threw question after question at him and he remained unfazed. That man is a treasure to the park. Sit yourself under his wing for 45 minutes to an hour and soak up some Texas history.
Old Washington Town Site Loop Trail. Read the signage along the way. Listen to the Brazos River. Imagine yourself in the shoes of those who came before you.
Barrington Living History Farm. Travel back to the 1850’s. It’s priceless! Just know it will be hard to come back.
Must Do’s
An Adam Arnold Tour. See #1 above.
Old Washington Town Site Loop Trail. See #2 above.
Barrington Living History Farm. See #3 above.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site! Please share your experiences at this vintage State Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
By the time we visited Stephen F. Austin State Park, we knew the drill. There would be closures in the park due to Hurricane Harvey. We were prepped for that. We adjusted our expectations prior to arrival. We were ready to embrace whatever opportunities awaited us, and with that cranial approach, our visit to SFASP was a surprisingly pleasant experience!
I say surprisingly because the river portion of the park was closed, which meant no fishing, and like I have stated before, The Manling is happiest when he can drop a line in the water. But…
After talking with the most outgoing Park Ranger we’ve encountered to date – seriously, Bryan was super enthusiastic, a lover of birds and edible plants, and just so happened to know his park backwards and forwards, so he completely hooked us up with some stellar hikes in his breathtakingly beautiful park – we headed to our first stop.
I’ll never look at trees “dripping” with something in the same romantic way. Ever again. Seriously.
The Barred Owl Trail was a compact dirt trail through towering trees draped with what The Manling thought was called Grandfather’s Beard (which he pointed out was Tick Paradise, which maybe wasn’t what I especially wanted to hear in the moment. “And it’s good as a fire starter, too.” Okay, then. That info will come in handy if we need to send smoke signals once the ticks descend upon us en masse.) Within the first five minutes on the Barred Owl Trail, we heard a massive flutter overhead. Looking up, we were shocked to see an actual Barred Owl taking flight! Owls being a favorite of The Manling, he thrilled at being able to see one so up close while my prevailing thought was What an aptly named trail! closely followed by We’re definitely not going on the Copperhead Trail then!
We continued on that wide trail to the Scenic Overlook, which was the closest we got to the Brazos River. It was both beautiful to behold and sobering to see the destructive potential that rivers bear on the areas surrounding them.
Our next stop was the Amphitheater, where we parked the car for our hike on the Opossum Loop, which sounded like a way less sinister trail than the aforementioned Copperhead Trail (which Bryan suggested would be a great hike for us to explore, but I was not having that name in the HQ, and even less so once we encountered the Barred Owl on the Barred Owl Trail). Park Ranger Bryan pointed out that the Opossum Trail featured 100′ tall cottonwood trees draped in vines that were a definite must-see, and he was right. They were magnificent and majestic and exquisite and stunning. I got a little turned around with the map and directions in general while we were on that looped trail, but thankfully I had an Eagle Scout with me so I was able to just enjoy the sights and sounds while he navigated us back to the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside).
Look how utterly inviting the path looks as The Manling directs our steps into the blessed shade of those towering trees. Delightful!
I’m pretty sure this guy was stalking us.
Seriously the most serene, easy to follow trails through beautiful towering trees. SFASP knows how to do trails.
One more thing I want to point out is the fact that SFASP has the most adorable log cabin-type shelters in the existence of log cabin-type shelters. It totally looked like something out of pioneer America and if, by chance or plan, you find yourself in the area, I would highly recommend staying in their Log Cabin-inspired Tiny House Community. They would make such an adorable addition to your memory-making moments. Trust me.
See what I mean?
They are so adorable it almost hurts!
Why We Love Stephen F. Austin State Park
Log Cabin Tiny House Village. Go back and look at the pics. Adorable, right? You can’t help but want to make those a part of your memories at SFASP.
Aptly Named Trails. How often have you hiked a trail and thought, Why’d they name the trail that? I didn’t see anything but this. Amiright? We saw a Barred Owl on the Barred Owl Trail. Which leads me to believe the Sycamore Trail has Sycamore Trees; the Opossum Trail has opossum; and that Copperhead Trail has (gulp!) copperheads. There are maybe about 6 miles of trail in the park, broken down into very doable loops or one-ways that are very well maintained. Enjoy exploring them!
Bryan. This guy has information in spades stored in his noggin. Use him. He was a wealth of information, super friendly, and he made our adventure sound like so much fun I asked him to join us! (He actually wished he could, but he was training a new recruit that day.)
Must Do’s
Stay. Tiny Log Cabin Village. How can you not?! They also have camping, RV spots, a cabin, and group barracks. I’m partial to the pioneering-type shelters, but you do you.
Hike. The trails are all manageable lengths for most anybody. The longest trail is only 1.25 miles and it’s marked as Easy. Get out there and explore, especially the Barred Owl Trail and the Opossum Loop.
Talk to Bryan. He’s your man for all things SFASP-related. And if you really want to speak his language, ask him about birds or edible plants.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Stephen F. Austin State Park! Please share your thoughts on this magnificent park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
I have been mulling over how I would share our visit to Brazos Bend State Park since we visited in August 2018. Honestly, when we first arrived, I wasn’t feelin’ it. I was completely over sitting in the car; the older gentleman that was registering his RV took exactly forever; I felt on the verge of literal starvation; the entrance to the park featured an alligator, which gave me a deplorable sinking feeling; and quite frankly after visiting 44 state parks over the course of just a few months, I wondered if this one located roughly in the middle of Nowhere, TX, could offer anything worth the drive. This was the lovely frame of mind I was in when the older gentleman {finally} finished checking in and it was our turn. I have no doubt that the two Park Staffers wondered what my deal was when I less-than-half-heartedly asked for suggestions on what to see and do during our stay only to shoot down their suggestions one-by-one because, like I said, I wasn’t feelin’ it. I remember a lot of talk about alligators “here” and “there” (as spots were pointed out on the Park Map); there was some mention of birds around dusk (yawn – We’d already visited 3 bona fide birding centers, man! You can’t top that here!); yada-yada. Oh yeah, I was a delight.
As the Manling and I headed to our little tiny house (aka a screened shelter) to unpack, inflate, and introvert before we gave thought to what we felt like doing, my inner-toddler began whimpering for home, her bed, and some much needed solitude. After unloading our gear (basically our air mattresses, a camping toilet, and two portable mini-fans), The Manling (in the prime of his life) fell asleep with the sun still high in the sky. Not in the prime of my life, I can manage a quick nap maybe once a year, and today was to be my day. I fell asleep, too. Apparently, we were both road weary.
Isn’t our tiny home-away-from-home absolutely adorable with that little porch?! LOVE it!
Just because I’d be interested to see inside the tiny house, here ya go. This is right before our accidental naps, mere minutes into our introverting.
About forty-five minutes later, I jerked awake and thought, “We’d better do something about my imminent starvation.” I remembered one of the Park Staff saying something that sounded like “J-Cafe” and it being roughly 30 minutes away, but worth the drive for the “best food around.” I Yelped it, woke The Manling, and we headed toward our dinner with fingers crossed. Thirty minutes later, sitting unassumingly beside a two lane country road in Needville, TX, we pulled into the parking lot of “The Jay Cafe.” Within a minute, we found ourselves seated at the best seat in the house with our server attending to our every need.
Don’t beat around the bush. Order the chicken fried steak dinner. And treat yourself to a slice of their chocolate sheet cake because life is short. Live a little.
Our table was next to the only picture window in the room and overlooked a sweet little garden area. Peaceful, just like the doctor ordered.
An hour later, we were fat and happy from tried-and-true Texas favorites and we headed back to BBSP. This time, as we passed by the alligator sign, I felt cheerier and ready for an adventure. We headed for Hale Lake for some fishing and photography, both of which ended up being rewarding!
The Manling didn’t catch anything he’d consider worth mentioning, but I was impressed that he kept catching little guys off this really tall pier. That’s gotta take skill.
While The Manling fished, I walked part of the Hale Lake Loop Trail. Until I came across this sign. And like The Man says, they choose the wording on warnings for a reason, so I guess at some point in the past an alligator was…molested?
Next, we decided to drive around to explore the park, which eventually led us to Elm Lake. We decided to park and walk around this beautiful area on foot, which is how we stumbled across the wildlife viewing area on the water – and the first of two truly unforgettable encounters with nature we experienced firsthand at BBSP.
This needs to be attached to my house – the covered porch AND the view.
We saw lots of alligator trails through the water. No alligators though.
While we were enjoying the setting sun through the trees, the calm serenity of the lake, the shade of the wildlife viewing area, and the few birds enjoying this lush paradise, we were startled out of our moment of peace by quite a racket overhead as hundreds (if not thousands!) of birds entered BBSP to roost for the evening. SERIOUSLY. Hundreds (or possibly thousands!) of birds flew just over our heads, continuing past our perch on the wildlife viewing deck in search of their own for the night. Never has either of us seen such an awesome spectacle! “This must be what the Park Staff was talking about when they mentioned the birds,” I commented to The Manling with due awe infusing my words. Dear reader, put this on the top of your To-Do list for Brazos Bend State Park. Trust me.
Next we drove to 40 Acre Lake with just enough sunset left for The Manling to fish a little before we called it a night. I don’t remember if he caught anything off of the pier. What I do remember is this:
These are sobering signs. Especially at dusk. We, however, didn’t cross any alligators. Thankfully.
Fast-forward past showers in some of the most incredible State Park bathrooms you’ve ever used.
Past this guy enjoying our tiny house’s porch as much as we did…
We almost walked into this guy (about the size of my palm) while we were unloading the car). He was still there when we left the following day.
Past a great night’s sleep (once we got used to the bright lights our neighbor was using. He had hung white sheets around his porch and had bright lights atop tripods to attract bugs so that he could photograph them, which I guess was kind of cool. At least he was quiet. And in the end, better his porch than ours. Have all the bugs, neighbor. They’re yours.).
We awakened just as the sky began turning from the black of night to the gray of pre-dawn when our phone’s alarms simultaneously pulled us from sound sleep. After the obligatory stretches and yawns, we pulled on shoes, nodded our Good morning’s, and drove the car back to 40 Acre Lake to catch the sun’s rise from the Observation Tower. By the time we arrived, there was enough light to justify walking the 40 Acre Lake Trail (a loop around the lake), the Observation Tower being located on the other side of the lake from the parking lot. This early morning hike was the second of those two truly extraordinary wildlife encounters, for The Manling and I saw dozens of alligators in the water on either side of that trail by the time we finished the loop! And lest this doesn’t fill you with some kind of emotional response, let me share that there is nothing between you and the alligators. Nada. The trail is raised a few feet above the water, so that is something. But these are not the safe encounters you are used to in a zoo setting where safety precautions abound. Here is your safety precaution at BBSP –
Back to our sunrise walk. The Manling and I were making our way to the halfway point of the loop so that we could climb the Observation Tower, him all fearless and me all jumpy, when S P L A S H !
“What was that?!” whispered I.
“That was probably just a bird, Mom,” said he.
Yes, he really did reply that the huge splash! we’d just heard was probably a bird. I was all, “How big a bird do you think that was???” Seriously?? A bird?! Then we saw this swimming our way –
The Manling said oh-so-nonchalantly, “It was probably that alligator getting into the water.” And let me tell you, friend, we didn’t see it until it had gotten into the water from the trail we were on. Sobering. Like those signs posted every 50 feet or so. It just got real all up in here.
We continued on the trail, more vigilant than ever, both of the trail and the water. By the time we made it to the Observation Tower, we had already seen almost 10 alligators in the water, most so inanimate that the one who spotted it had to point it out to the other.
Our reward for getting up so early and braving a sunrise hike around a lake known to contain alligators was this view.
We saw plenty of fishing birds on the other side of the Observation Tower.
After this early morning “hike” surrounded by dozens of alligators (big. small. everything in-between.), The Manling and and I returned to our tiny house to load up the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside), sweep out our digs, and bid Brazos Bend State Park a very reluctant Goodbye. As we were exiting the park, we had one last interaction with one of the local ‘gators who came out to bid us adieu.
Cute. Seems like a missed opportunity, tho. Just a little.
Until next time, Brazos Bend State Park. We most assuredly will be back. Guaranteed.
Why We Love Brazos Bend State Park
Facilities. Having used the facilities in over 56 Texas State Parks, I feel I am becoming a subject matter expert on the subject. Trust me when I say Brazos Bend State Park has some of the nicest I’ve had the pleasure to use!
Alligators. Go on an alligator hike. The Park Staff can tell you where they’ve been spotted recently. Mind the signage. (Be safe, not sorry.) And have an awesome firsthand experience like we did. (P.S. Don’t molest the alligators. And hold on to your dogs. Just sayin’.)
Birds. IDK if this is a year-round occurrence, but during late summer the birds flock there by the hundreds (nay, thousands!) to roost for the night. It is a spectacle not to be missed. It was awesome!
Tiny Houses. You’ve simply got to live tiny while you’re there. The little tiny house ‘hood is adorable! Private. Quiet. And you can bring your fans to keep you cool.
Trails. Thirty-seven miles of trails to explore and enjoy! It’s quiet. Peaceful. Beautifully lush.
Sunrise/Sunset. Both are incredible! We recommend the Wildlife Viewing Area for sunset and the Observation Tower for sunrise. Or vice versa.
Must Do’s
Observation Tower. You truly cannot get a firm grip on the terrain of BBSP without seeing it from this bird’s eye view. Totally worth the mini-hike to climb this tower. Incredible 360 degree views of beautiful.
Fish. I believe The Manling caught somewhere every place he dropped a line. Nothing terribly large, but big enough to feel on your line. And anytime you can catch something, it’s better than not.
Stay. Camp. RV. Shelter. Cabin with amenities. Whatever your preference, BBSP has you covered. (Get it?)
Explore the Trails. There are lots of them through some of the most lush parts of Texas. It’s beautiful, serene, and filled with wildlife. Hike ’em. Bike ’em. You can even ride ’em (on your horse). Go make a memory!
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Brazos Bend State Park! Please share your experiences at this phenomenal {if a little fearful} wildlife retreat in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
Galveston Island State Park is a park we’ve returned to again and again. No two visits are the same.
August 2018
There was the year that Galveston had the fiercest storm they’d had in years and we erected our palatial three-room tent in the deluge only to have the wind snap our poles and render our fancy digs dumpster fodder. The one in which we were awake half the night praying begging prayers for the good Lord to deliver us from literally being blown into the bay. The camp out when we learned that the most beautiful sunsets are after the most trying storms. The one during which we carpe diem’d every moment, rain or shine, and discovered that I hate raccoons with an unnatural fervency. We geocached. We rode horses on the beach. We fished and caught a crab and a sting ray. We were bullied out of the bathrooms by hundreds of tiny crabs. And that is the one we look back on with the fondest memories!
Circa 2014
Then there was the one we abhor. Nothing went right in the most unpleasant of ways. The mosquitos were on us like it was their paying jobs to give us the West Nile virus. The tent camping loop, we discovered, had no electricity. That mattered because it was the end of summer, 100 degrees at night, and we had zero means to plug in our oscillating fans – must-haves for summer camping in Texas. Our neighbors arrived late (after 10pm) and proceeded to erect their tent and party like it was 1999 until 3 or 4am – and the only thing between our ears and their partying was a flap of canvas. The year The Man and The Manling decided sunscreen was of the devil and fishing in the ocean without it (or a shirt) for a few hours would be no big deal (it was). The trip when we all secretly wished to pack up and go home and eventually one of us ventured to put out a feeler to the idea at which ALL of us heaved deep sighs of relief and got to packing.
Circa 2015
And then there was this year, when The Manling and I were the late arrivals, erecting our two tiny tents by the headlights of the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside). This time, however, we were in a smaller, but electric site (RV loop) so we were able to have tiny fans to keep us cool. To God be the glory!
Note: white extension cords to our tents. So much better with the air moving! Bonus note: white noise to drown out the nocturnal critter sounds.
We set our alarms to wake up at the crack of dawn so that we could watch the sun rise over the water, a new thing for us at GISP and one which we highly recommend anywhere you are camping. There is seriously not a better way to start your day.
The crack of dawn came too early for one of us. (Love this pic taken from inside my tent of The Manling inside his.)
Two gates between our camp site and the beach, which The Manling lethargically unlocked and opened for us using the code supplied for late arrivals.
I won’t lie to you. Facing that narrow path in the wee, still-mostly-dark hours was a bit daunting…because snakes.
But then I looked to the east and knew this would be one sunrise worth facing my fears.
Glad to be oh-so-right!
As we continued to wake, The Manling took to the solitude of the surf, hoping to land “the big one,” and I took to the solitude of the shower because I’m a girl that likes to feel clean even if all I will do is sweat the rest of the day. It’s a quirk I don’t mind having.
Freshly showered in GISP’s excellent cedar restrooms (seriously, these things are luxurious!), I spent the rest of the day watching The Manling enjoy his favorite past time while surrendering to the peaceful serenity of beach life. (We attempted to geocache at one point, but the spot the app led us to was too overgrown for my personal comfort. And we talked about hiking to the Observation Tower, but eventually decided to save that adventure for another trip. It was a hundred degrees, after all, so why exert yourself when the beach beckons?)
I love watching him cast the net and he loves not paying for bait fish. Win-win!
I don’t think I ever noticed how chock full of wildlife the beach is!
A flock of…pelicans!
This little guy stalked The Manling the entire time he fished in this spot on the Bayside, hoping for a free meal.
Why We Love Galveston Island State Park
Facilities. Galveston Island State Park had the first truly nice restrooms we’d ever experienced within a State Park. And years later, they are still amazing. This means a lot to skittish visitors like myself, especially when staying overnight and having to use the showers to wash off the stink from fishing and hundred degree days. Well done, GISP!
Fishing. The fishing is really good from the Bayside shores, from kayaks, or standing in the Gulf of Mexico…you will feel like an expert angler at GISP, especially if you use fresh shrimp.
Camping. We have camped beachside and bayside (both loops). There’s just not a bad place to hang your hat at GISP. (Word to the wise, if you’re camping during the summer, bring a fan and use the RV loop or beachside so that you’ll have electricity. Trust me.)
Sunrise/Sunset. Worth every minute of lost sleep, GISP appears to have cornered the market on the most brilliantly colored sunrises and sunsets available to man. Enjoy them!
Must Do’s
Stay. They have new-ish cabins on the Bayside; RV loop with hookups and a tent loop with no hook ups on the Bayside; and electric/water sites on the Beachside for RV or tents. There is something for everyone and every budget, so what are you waiting for?
Fish. The Manling prefers the peaceful tranquility of the Bayside, but beach fishing at GISP has also been good to him. Use shrimp or bait fish.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Galveston Island State Park! Please share your experiences at this beachy retreat of aState Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
My birds eye view atop the observation tower was stunning at sunrise, but I would imagine it would be spectacular as the sun set across the water on the other end of the day.
As a kid, I loved watching The Parent Trap. The whole idea of going to camp for the entire summer seemed like Heaven on Earth. The myriad of activities available to all the campers at Miss Inch’s Summer Camp for Girls always looked so fun! And the camp itself looked like the most picture-perfect place on Earth to my young eyes.
Separately, The Manling and I conquered our fears of height to gain a higher perspective of the beautiful lake and the spectacular surrounding areas.
As a teenager, I was all about Dirty Dancing – but not because of Patrick Swayze. Kellerman’s Resort held the irresistible draw to my teenaged self that Miss Inch’s Summer Camp for Girls did to the younger me. It was a magical place that offered good, clean fun for it’s guests like the talent show where the accordion players among us finally got their fifteen minutes of fame. There were log cabins (like the one Baby’s family rented) and beautiful lakes in the background and a variety of activities designed to bring people together in wholesome ways. (I would argue that the resort played a pivotal role in the movie, for the idyllic setting captured my attention more than any of the main characters.)
My amazing view as the sun greeted the day.
As an adult, I discovered Lake Livingston State Park during the Summer of 2018, a place that was like stepping back into the absolutely best parts of yesteryear. I don’t think it’s an overstatement to say that LLSP has somehow captured all of the greatest moments of childhood and nestled them under towering East Texas trees, and then tossed in an absolutely perfect campy vibe that leaves you wistful for bygone days.
My fondest childhood memories apparently live on at LLSP, most especially at the screened shelters area. Little House on the Prairie, anyone? Those adorable wooden shelters on the shores of Lake Livingston State Park made me want to exchange the luxury & convenience of city life for the quaint simplicity beckoning from within those tiny houses right then and there. (Honestly, I texted The Man while I was walking around that area to inform him that I believed I could live my best life RIGHT. THERE. And I meant it.)
See what I mean?!?! My heart aches to call that place home.
Or this one. I’m not picky. I could live my best life in either of these one room shelters. I promise.
While I was off fantasizing about living my best life in one of those Tiny Houses, The Manling was – drum roll please – fishing. And for all you anglers out there, the fishing is good at Lake Livingston State Park, even from the shoreline.
A sampling of the little guys that called the area around the boat launch home.
I even landed a wee little fella when I took a break from my nostalgia to live in the moment with The Manling.
What else is there to do at Lake Livingston State Park if you’re not into reliving yesteryear or fishing? Rent a canoe and spend some time on the lake. Geocache. Go hiking – there’s about 5 miles of trail. Mountain bike. Go on a nature hunt for birds, or rabbits, or armadillos, or flying squirrels…even alligators! The point is, there is something for everyone at LLSP. What are you waiting for?
Why We Love Lake Livingston State Park
Nostalgia. If your best childhood memories could be packaged into a State Park, that State Park would be Lake Livingston.
Water. This is an irresistible draw during the summer heat in Texas. LLSP offers affordable canoe and kayak rentals. They loan good ole fashioned cane fishing poles. And you can swim in the lake, to boot!
Shelters. Scroll back up to those pictures. They speak for themselves, but I gushed over them anyway. #bestlifeever
Forest. We love trees. Tall ones. The kind that offer real shade. The kind under which the temperature is noticeably lower. We want to look at them. We want to walk in their shade. We want to see the impossibly blue sky peeping through their towering, green limbs. If you do, too, LLSP is your utopia.
Must Do’s
Sunset. Go to the tip-top of the Observation Tower about an hour before sunset and just enjoy the show over Lake Livingston.
Stay. Reader, you can request specific campsites and shelters, which is unusual within the State Park system because the norm is “first come, first served.” Take advantage of that awesomeness and rent shelter #7 or #3. Trust me.
Hike. While we didn’t hike on our visit (the shoreline fishing was too good!), reading about the nite hike to Frog Pond is calling my name! And rumor has it that the most popular trail (the Pineywoods Boardwalk Trail) happens to be the means to get to Frog Pond, so you totally score a twofer with this hike. Don’t forget a flashlight.
Make Memories. In my opinion, this isn’t the place to be alone. Grab those you love and go make some memories at LLSP. The place is rich with opportunities!
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Lake Livingston State Park! Please leave your comments on this State Park that is nothing short of a delicious slice of yesteryear below.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
The Manling and I visited Abilene State Park in July 2018. It was our first visit to this gem, even though it is only three hours from our home in North Texas. En route, I hunkered down for some alone time in my favorite space – my head – while The Manling reposed in the passenger seat of the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside). As the road changed from interstate to a two-lane road, the scenery morphed. I exchanged the flat expanses of I-20 for sublime roads more akin to roller-coaster tracks filled with hills, valleys, twists, and turns. No longer was I staring across level fields of wind turbines. I was now delightedly driving through miles and miles of them as I wound my way ever closer to Abilene State Park.
The Manling had been awake all of 60 seconds when we snapped our entry selfie. God bless him.
While registering our visit with the Park Staff upon arrival, we chatted both of them up about their park, attempting to extract from each what they personally considered top notch V.I.P. experiences within ASP. Their suggestions combined with the plethora of activities listed on the website greased the wheels of my imagination for a fall camp out with friends, from which the gears have continued to spin. From this ceaseless planning, I have created:
Abilene State Park’s Top 10 Activities for Every Person on the Planet
10. Swimming. Open during the summer, ASP offers park goers a ginormous swimming pool, a smaller wading pool, tons of seating, and even shaded lounge chairs to make for an epic poolside day of fun in the sun (or shade). The perfect cure for the Texas summer heat.
9. Bird Blind. Lots of State Parks provide special areas for guests to enjoy the sights and sounds of their winged visitors, but ASP went a step beyond with their bird blind. We could actually hear the wings of several hummingbirds from our vantage point, as well as the happy chirping and singing of several other varieties of birds visiting their favorite, shaded, protected watering hole. Delightful!
8. Horseshoes. Nestled under glorious shade trees near the pool and beautiful CCC-constructed water tower are actual horseshoe pits! As in, good ol’ fashioned fun from yesteryear!
7. Kayak/Canoe Rental. Rentals are available in the park’s HQ for kayaks and canoes, a fun way to explore Lake Abilene during your visit.
6. Team Building Game(s). Sand volleyball. Soccer. Baseball. Kickball. There’s space for all of these fun team building games at ASP! Grab some friends and bond over a competitive sport…or two!
5. Fishing. There is a pond on the HQ side of the park, but there’s a lake across the road surrounded by the beautiful rolling hills of the Callahan Divide. The whole time you’re fishing, you’ve got the sneaking suspicion that you are actually somehow fishing on the planet Mars with the beautiful orange terra firma beneath your feet.
4. Trails. With around five miles of them, you could legitimately see the entire park by foot over the course of a weekend. Some are bike-accessible, too! The ones we trekked on our visit were beautiful with canopied trees, lush undergrowth, and a variety of birds providing an enjoyable soundtrack while we explored.
3. Sunset. Lake Abilene at sunset. Trust me.
2. Geocaching. There were a few free geocaches within the park and I have to give kudos to the brilliant blokes that hid them. They were FANTASTIC! I may sound like a broken record, but geocaching is the best way to explore a new area. Download the free app and go have fun modern-day treasure hunting!
1. Staying. This is number one because of the variety of wonderful, picturesque, and one-of-a-kind accommodations available at ASP.
Tent camping? yes
RV camping? yes
Lakeside Cabin? yes
Tiny House Village? yes (a.k.a. shelters, but they look like an adorable tiny house village set underneath the trees!)
YURTS? oh my, yes! (Sign me up for an overnighter in a bona fide yurt complete with beds and an a/c, please!)
Why We Love Abilene State Park
Location. I mentioned driving through miles and miles of twisty-turny, up-and-down roads through the towering wind turbines en route to ASP. When we left, we were treated to the likes of Buffalo Gap, a precious little piece of ‘Merica that will make you want to listen to Lee Greenwood sing “Proud to be an American” on a loop while you explore it via the geocache method of tourism.
Variety of Activities. Boating. Swimming. Horseshoes. Team Sports. Fishing. Hiking. Biking. Bird Watching. Geocaching. Exploring. It’s all there for the taking, friend.
Accommodations. Yurts, people. Yurts with a/c. And if that isn’t enough, shelters that look like a Tiny House Village nestled under beautiful trees. If those are too primitive, there’s a legitimate Lake House Cabin. Or if you are so inclined to bring your own accommodations, the tent or RV sites are picture perfect.
Must Do’s
Um, see the above list.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Abilene State Park! Please share your experiences at this deliciously divertingState Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
We first met Mater when we visited Lake Colorado City State Park about four years ago, chillin’ in the field across from the park entrance. We waved a friendly “hello” as we headed home after a few hours at the park, glad that he’d come to see us off that uneventful day. Uneventful in the truest sense because our first visit to this self-proclaimed desert oasis was kind of a dud. Not only was the park desolate in an eerily creepy kind of way, the park was in the deep, dark part of a severe drought at the time and what was left in it’s wake looked to our eyes like the aftermath of an apocalyptic event. Mangled docks looked like a shockwave had rendered them completely unusable and almost unidentifiable had they not been standing so tall on parched ground that was, in former days, the lake.
Imagine our surprise when we saw Mater again during our revisit mid-July 2018, sitting in the same spot across from the entrance to the park, reminiscent of the good ole days when hard working folks sat a spell on the porch, sipping sweet tea, enjoying the gentle breeze of the summer evening after a long day of sweaty labor on their land. Love.
Kinder Frau, The Manling, and me – circa 2014
But there ends any similarity between our first visit and our second.
On our second trip to LCCSP, what we happily discovered was a park slowly, but surely, recovering from the devastating effects of years of drought. The fishing piers that were formerly disfigured and damaged by the drought were replaced with sturdy, robust piers that hosted a small, but continual rotation of anglers eager to drop a line in the water, which now delightedly covered the ground under them once again.
Where the park was desolate years before, we now encountered a handful of families both in the RV camping area and using the lakefront, air conditioned shelters, all of which look like newly build tiny homes complete with shaded front porches.
On our first visit, the lake was deserted, unused. On our more recent visit, we crossed paths with a family setting up a canopy in preparation for a day in the sun and surf once again available at Lake Colorado City State Park.
On our first visit, our imaginations were stirred for hours, imagining various scenarios that could have caused the undisclosed apocalyptic event. On our revisit, our minds were engaged geocaching. The park has a couple of great finds, by the way. And this is a great way to explore the park on foot for singles, couples, or the whole family.
While we restricted our explorations to the main roads on our first visit, this second time around Park Ranger Sky encouraged us to discover the roughly 1.5 mile (round trip) of bike trail they have been working to clear.
This park that was once fodder to spark conversation and creativity, is slowly becoming one that we can imagine will again hosts hoards of West Texans seeking to escape the heat in the cool waters of Lake Colorado City, on the cusp of becoming a desert oasis once more.
Why We Love Lake Colorado City State Park
Mater. I know he’s not technically a part of the park, but he has been a part of our park experience both visits and we love him. Make sure to wave a friendly “hello” to him when you see him.
Water. It’s hard to not hit a home run during the Texas summer heat when water is part of the equation. Thankfully, LCCSP is making a comeback in that department.
Fishing. Boat docks and fishing piers in the early morning and evening are the best times to drop a line.
Geocaching. There are one or two in some pretty ferrel areas, but there is one that is hidden in a truly spectacular location. Let the treasure hunting begin!
Trails. The trails were still under construction while we were there, but they are already taking shape and I think they will be pretty awesome either on foot or by bike in the near future.
A/C Shelters. I’m a sucker for tiny homes and these cute little shelters with a/c look like a newly built community of them, all lakeside. Bonus!
Must Do’s
Geocache. Hands-down, I think this is the absolute best way to get up close and personal with a new area. State Parks included.
Fish. The Manling wasn’t able to catch much on our visit, but we were there during the middle of the day. He will definitely try again the next time we are at LCCSP. You can count on it.
Swim. The water is making a comeback. A family was enjoying their floats on the water when we were there. Dip a toe in.
Stay. Tiny homes. RV’s. Even tent camping (in a more hospitable time of year). LCCSP can accommodate all budgets and preferences.
Explore. The trails look like they will be nice, wide, level trails for mountain biking…or exploring on foot. I’m especially psyched to try the one that runs adjacent to the lake. That promises to have some pretty great views.
First of all, the road to the parking lot of the Wyler Aerial Tramway could be kissing cousins to the Crookedest Street in the World in San Fransisco. It was steep from the very beginning with incredible switchbacks that made driving our two-door stick shift an off-the-charts kind of adventure. Kudos to the planners that engineered that paved piece of paradise!
Secondly, from the moment we got in line to ride the Tramway to the top of Ranger Peak, The Manling and I were treated like V.I.P.s. Those tiny little trams tote a great many people up and down Ranger Peak all the livelong day and in order to do that efficiently, they occasionally combine parties for the ride. Such was our case. Shortly after we joined the lengthening line to patiently wait our turn at the bottom, we heard a call for “any two-person parties” and quickly raised our hands. As we made our way forward, apologizing to the crowd, we were legitimately boo‘d. I think they were kidding, but if they weren’t, I totally get it. It was a thousand degrees and we were cheating the system that they had obediently followed. (Not only did we get to skip the line like V.I.P.’s on the way up, we also got to skip it on the way down – but I’ll tell you about that later. Wait for it.)
Even though we both suffer from a serious fear of heights, that ride up to Ranger Peak was spectacular. It was Standing Room Only in our tiny tram (because there is only one seat and it is reserved for the Tram Operator), which we shared with a sweet Grandma and her five young grand-minions. It was an ideal scenario, really, because everyone was so short-of-stature that we enjoyed 360 degree unimpeded views over their wee little heads (Grandma included).
Once at the top, we read all the signage in a quest to properly orient ourselves so we could fully appreciate our mile-high vantage point.
Mexico? Check.
Army base? Check.
Airport? Check.
This mountain? Check.
That mountain? Check.
Rio Grande? Check.
Border crossing? Check, check, and check.
Next, we made our way to the Souvenir Shop to get a Park Map because we, my friends, were planning to hike to the Crash Site. What Crash Site, you may ask? I have no idea, but it sounded like something that would happen in Roswell and that was just too cool for us to take a pass.
In order to do that, however, for the first time in my life, I had to get a bona fide hiking permit. The area the commoners are allowed to walk around at the top of Ranger Peak is small. And gated. Not really intended for extended visits. Kind of a treat-em-and-street-em scenario. You actually cannot physically touch the mountain while you’re on top of it because it’s all platform and souvenir shop and machinery…unless you secure hiking permits. And we had them. I confess that I was high on my own importance as we walked purposely toward the gate, threw it open, and boldly walked passed the RESTRICTED ACCESS sign and onward toward our adventure amid the wide-eyed stares of the more ordinary folk.
Now let me backtrack for a sec because Ranger Eddie (who, in my opinion, seemed unnecessarily concerned for our welfare at the time) drilled into us this important advice before we headed out on our 1-1.5 hour hike: take a lot more hydration with you than you figure you’ll need, and constantly orient yourself via the Tram Stop at the top of Ranger Peak. Do those two things, and you should be a-ok. Oh! And watch your footing, so I guess three things. Seeing as our surplus of water was back down in the parking lot in the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside), we concluded we had enough in our packs for such a short hike. After all, Eddie didn’t know us, or our mad hiking skills.
I tucked the map into my back pack because WE GOT THIS, MAN. Plus, The Manling is an Eagle Scout and they know how to orienteer their way out of a black hole, so I was set to just enjoy the views and the company for the next hour or so.
The beginning of the trail was a series of descents to where the trail actually evened out, more or less, as it encircled Ranger Peak. I was feeling pretty smug and superior as we alone made our way along the trail Ranger Eddie had pointed out from the the Tram Stop above.
Yeah. Real climbing went on to get to the mostly even trail shown in the next pic.
This right here. This is what Ranger Eddie pointed out to us from above – a nice, obvious path. What could go wrong?
I was also beginning to feel lightheaded. The cure, I discovered, was to look at the ground a few feet in front of my feet, so that is how we made our way around the mountain, Jesse in front talking and navigating us while I brought up the rear, head angled down. Occasionally we stopped so that I could take in the view or snap some pics, but for the most part, we continued toward the Crash Site Overlook in this fashion until…
I looked up and realized we were almost to Guardhouse #2. Which is on a different trail altogether. The Tram Stop – that was suppose to faithfully remain to our right en route to the overlook – was now directly behind us. My shoulders sagged a little, remembering that this was what Ranger Eddie had warned us not to let happen. Sigh.
After a quick call to Ranger Eddie in the Souvenir Shop, we retraced our steps back up the mountain, searching for the signage that would direct us back onto the proper trail and sucking down a lot of water in the process because mountain climbing in the July afternoon heat in West Texas is dehydrating, to say the least. Eventually we spotted this –
Yo, Eagle Scout. How did you not see this sign? “I was enjoying the view.”
– at which point I may have collapsed to give my shaking legs a much-needed break from the vertical climb while I sucked down even more H2O, and, at which point, The Manling informed me that we were on our last two bottles. Drats! We both knew we could not make it to the Crash Site Overlook on the water left in those two bottles, not if we planned to make the return trip. Reluctantly, and with heads hanging a little lower in disappointment, we began the slow hike back to the top of the peak.
I’m going to spare you the long and arduous return trip except to say that we lost the trail THREE. TIMES. Yes, THREE more times we climbed up higher than we should have before retracing our steps back down, or we went lower than we should have before having to reclimb our way back up to the trail, and we only had that scant amount of water left and at this rate, we were surely not going to make it back unassisted, so eventually my feels about all of this had to come out and I cried – A LOT! – which may have exasperated The Manling because he doesn’t yet know how to process a grown woman crying out in despair.
At one point I asked The Manling to please, please, please say something to encourage me. “How about one of those verses you learned in AWANA? Gimme something to hold on to!” He paused and then said, “Even though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil…” to which I replied, “No! No! No! Not that one! I was thinking something along the lines of ‘I can do all things through Christ Who strengthens me or something!'” to which he replied, “Well, that was the only one I could think of right now.”
I remember at one point trying to calculate how much it would cost The Man if we had to have a helicopter rescue off that mountainside because I felt like I literally could not climb one more step.
And, to add insult to injury, I felt like I was about to hurl!
Eventually, my shaking legs did make it back to the top and they somehow deposited me into the air conditioned Souvenir Shop where I unceremoniously claimed a spot on the floor by the collector’s coin machine that takes a penny and smooshes it with an “engraving” of the place you’re visiting, at which point a Park Staffer (Nicole) came to render me aid. After getting cold, wet towels on important places on my body to help lower my internal temperature, Nicole called down to the bottom to have the snap towel in the freezer brought up on the next gondola for me. While she was doing this, The Manling bought me a pretty gargantuan-sized Gatorade – on his own dime.
Did I mention I was wearing all black while we hiked in 100+ degree heat, including running tights?
Eventually, and after everyone was satisfied that I could walk to the gondola unassisted, I was escorted to the front of the line for the second time that day. And you know that one seat that was reserved for the Tram operator? He gave it to V.I.P. me.
Why We Love Wyler Aerial Tramway State Park
Gondola. Those things are so cool! It takes about four minutes each way, but they are four very thrilling minutes! The Tram Operator directs your attention to various sights and cool information like the fact that both trams go at the same speed, but the other one will always appear faster. This ride is well worth the cost of admission.
Views. There is signage all around the viewing deck at the top of Ranger Peak that helps you discern where certain things are located. Like Mexico. Pretty cool! And being a mile high, there’s a lot to see up there!
Park Staff. Bless ’em, one and all. From Eddie talking to us about the serious nature of hiking in the heat around his mountain to Nicole swiftly rendering me aid to the Tram Operator who yielded his seat, they are all top notch in my book.
Trails. Man o man, do they ever have some doozies at WAT! There is one that even starts at the parking lot and climbs ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP. That’s some serious climbing! There are others that wind their way around the mountain, like the one we attempted. Word to the wise – the trails are loose rock on a rock mountain. Very tricky with the footing in a lot of spots. Wear grippy shoes and for the love of all things good, carry a TON of water.
Must Do’s
Tram Ride. Keep your cameras ready, this is a truly great experience and you’ll want to capture some of it on film. Plus, it’s the sole way to get to the top and those fantastic views, unless you plan to climb.
Hike. Please don’t let our experience dissuade you from some truly remarkable trails with unbelievable views because the next time we are in West Texas, we’re trying that trail to the Crash Site Overlook again. It was one of the best we’ve experienced, even though we didn’t conquer it!
Hydrate. Pack more water than you think you’ll need. And then double it. Truly, don’t suffer heat-related issues on the mountain. Take a ton of water with you. Just trust me on this one.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Wyler Aerial Tramway State Park! Please share your experiences at this mile high State Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
We got lost. Waze, who had become our BFF on our West Texas Road Trip by navigating us through the middle of many nowheres for five days straight and diverting us around a parking lot situation on I-20 in Odessa on day one, kind of let us down on the day we pointed the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside) toward El Paso’s Franklin Mountains by not intuitively knowing we meant the Tom Mays part of the park. On the flip side, she did get us to the HQ, which hooked us up with the likes of Erika the Office Manager and Ranger X (for Xavier – how cool is that?!) and they not only showed us how to get to the part of the park that we wanted, they also talked us through some great options once we got there. So, serendipity. (To aid you in your adventure, use this address in your map app – “Tom Mays Park Access Road” – to get to where the adventure is in Franklin Mountains State Park. It’s on the opposite side of the mountain from the HQ.)
FMSP is serious about mountain biking, offering a fix-it station at the Beginner’s Loop!
We mountain biked. I mean, we had burdened the Tiny Toyota Tardis with a heavy bike rack, our bikes, and The Manling’s fishing gear for days of driving up and down mountains, along rough dirt roads, across jarring cattle grates, and through stop-and-go big city traffic. And now, now we were finally getting to use them! Ranger X suggested the Beginner’s Loop to test our skills (because it was the most level), so that was our first stop. We figured we’d get a taste for what we were in for before we progressed to the more advanced trails. Ranger X did us a solid. The Beginner Loop is no joke, people. It was a barely discernible, teeny-tiny, twisty-turny trail through sharp cactus and over even sharper loose rock that caused us to skid and slide our way around it until I popped my chain. Twice. And got a flat. Back at the car thirty minutes later, we felt like we’d had a proper sampling of what mountain biking in West Texas was like and we were good. As in, done.
We paused at the entrance to the Beginner’s Loop to take in the spectacular view of the Franklin Mountains. Note: The beginning is the only wide portion of the trail you’ll see.
The Beginner’s Loop was the most level of all the trails, but it was a narrow, slippery ride that left me questioning my mountain biking prowess.
We hiked. We headed to the various trail heads next to get a sense of which one(s) we would tackle in the nearly-noon heat. Ranger X suggested we check out the Aztec Caves Trail or the Cottonwood Spring Trail. After a quick drive by of both, the Manling was feeling the Cottonwood Spring Trail. Since he was already feeling the effects of the heat from our mountain bike ride on the Beginner’s Loop, I just went with it, no questions asked. Long story short, we never made it to the lone cottonwood perched up on the rocky mountain’s side, clearly visible from the parking lot. And also clearly farther away than it looked, especially in temps that soared above 100 degrees. We made it about halfway before deciding that even if we continuously chugged the rest of our electrolyte-filled waters, that would not be enough to replenish our bodies for the remainder of the hike. We reluctantly retraced our steps back to the parking lot, the cold a/c of our vehicle, and drown our defeat in still more electrolytes in an attempt to recover from #4.
Heading up the rocky Cottonwood Spring Trail full of hopes and dreams
And heading back down the rocky Cottonwood Spring Trail, dehydrated and deflated
We suffered heat-related exhaustion. I don’t know how we could have prepped for a better outcome because we sucked down electrolytes all the livelong day like we were doing a paid endorsement, and we make sure our foodstuffs provided prime nourishment for our bodies so that they would be up to the tasks we asked said bodies to do. Maybe it was the time of day. Maybe it was the over 100 degree temps. Maybe it was the dry, West Texas heat. I don’t know. All I have to share is this, Be Aware. Heat exhaustion is real. When you go out and about and start to feel yourself struggle, Go Back. Live to adventure another day, my friend.
Why We Love Franklin Mountains State Park
Mountain Biking. If this is your thing, go for it! In my opinion, the trails are for experienced mountain bikers, including the Beginner’s Loop. Word to the wise – bring extra tubes because the rocks and cactus are sharp. You’ll need ’em.
Hiking. Excellent trails like the Cottonwood Spring and Aztec Caves await you. One thing I really liked and would make me return is that we never made it to our destinations. And you can see the caves as a gaping hole in the mountain from the parking lot and that kind of is an irresistible draw. Same for the Cottonwood Spring – you can see one, lone Cottonwood on the side of the mountain and you just HAVE to go to it. Wear good shoes. And drink plenty of electrolytes.
Park Staff. Office Manager Erika, Ranger X, and Ranger Geoff (whom we met in the Beginner’s Loop parking lot) were all top-notch human beings. Make sure to meet them and take advantage of their knowledge of the park to help plan your adventure in it.
Mountain Pass. Make sure you mistakenly start at the HQ so that you can ensure the drive through the Franklin Mountains pass, which was fun and beautiful and a little humbling when your car is struggling to the top, but totally worth it.
Must Do’s
Trails. They have long trails, short trails, bike trails, foot trails, even trails, steep trails. They have all of the kinds of trails you could imagine at FMSP. Go explore!
Hydrate. Talk to the Park Staff before your visit for suggestions on how to not have to cut your trip short like we did. It is seriously hot. And it is seriously dangerous to under-prepare. Educate yourselves before you go.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Franklin Mountains State Park! Please share your experiences at this hot-to-trot State Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
The Manling and I agree – Hueco Tanks has the best entrance photo opp of all of the parks we have seen, thus far. And this is technically before you even enter the state park proper! Once you enter, it’s a whole different level of awesome at Hueco Tanks State Park & Historic Site! But I’m getting ahead of myself in my enthusiasm to share our experience. Forgive me.
First stop once you enter the park is obviously the HQ to register your vehicle with the Park Staff at which time you will learn that there is a mandatory video for all park visitors before you can explore the park. Let me silence your groans by saying, it is a very engaging video. Super informative and even if you could skip it, I wouldn’t recommend that route because we learned so much in such a short period of time because of that mandatory video. Like, how to pronounce Hueco Tanks. What Hueco Tanks are. The history of the pictographs and graffiti in the park, and so on.
HTSP&HS is all about two things: history, and rock climbing. We were eager to start both, so once the educational video was done, we headed toward the big attraction – the boulders. You see, HTSP&HS isn’t a mountain. There are plenty of those. One of the things that you immediately notice about HTSP&HS as you drive toward it is that it looks like a collection of rocks, all stacked as if the Jolly Green Giant had been collecting them and was called away suddenly, leaving them in a giant pile. And as such, they beg to be explored!
Most of the trails are in full West Texas sun, which is abominably hot in July. The few shaded portions like this one are Godsends.
The paths are also well marked and maintained, which is good because there is no off-path exploration allowed.
There were different sites that skirted the North “Mountain” at ground level, which was the only portion of the park visitors were allowed to access without a guide, and we visited just about all of them. Unfortunately, we didn’t notice much more than graffiti. Definitely nothing discernible as original cave paintings to our untrained eyes. After looking for over an hour, we reluctantly gave up the search for these historical leavings in the searing heat of mid-afternoon. Deciding then would be the perfect time to climb rocks that had been baking in the early afternoon sun, we headed up the North “Mountain” for some bouldering fun.
Use the chain railing provided in the steeper parts. Losing your footing on the boulders would ruin your day. I know because I didn’t see them until our descent.
The Manling graciously gave me some “privacy” to compose my “feels” by looking in the opposite direction when I began to groan about every ache and pain my geriatric body was experiencing up the boulders. The sight of those cooler temps rolling our way did a lot to wash away my angst.
Two things happened on our ascent: 1) I had a mini-meltdown because it was way harder than it looked to climb those boulders, especially not having seen the handy-dandy rails to aid said climb of the steeper sections, and I was just trying to keep up with The Manling (who is in the prime of his youth) while I was carrying an umbrella to serve as both a piece of portable shade and an anti-snake device and, of course, my phone so that I could photo-document our experience; and 2) a glorious summer thunderstorm began brewing just to the west of us (see photo above) which provided the exact amount of cooler temps and refreshing breezes needed to galvanize me for the remainder of the climb. Seriously, it was just what the doctor ordered, those winds.
Eventually we made it to the top, which reminded me of that little bit of oasis from the end of the movie HOLES. We explored and enjoyed the wind and cooler temps it brought with it before we headed back down the boulders, this time with the aid of the blessed chain rails.
We headed back to the Interpretive Center to make sure we’d explored all we were going to explore on their humongous 3D terrain map thing since we still hadn’t spotted the famed cave paintings, when we met Charlie the Intern who took pity on our fruitless searching and ended up treating us to an impromptu personal tour behind the Interpretive Center.
I spy time! Even with Charlie the Intern pointing it out, do you see anything? We didn’t either.
I confess, we still saw nothing until Charlie the Intern pointed them out to us. Some of them were so light as to be barely discernible, but Charlie the Intern had a great $20 app on his phone that changed the resolution of photos and once he took a photo and manipulated it so that we knew what we were looking for, it felt like one of those Magic Eye stereogram moments that were all the rage in the 90’s. We finally saw them!
Make sure to climb up the overhang to the right in order to see the pictographs further in the back like The Manling did with Charlie the Intern.
After Charlie the Intern schooled us on what we were looking for, we retraced our steps to Site 17 and all that we had discounted earlier as just graffiti (which has been a problem in the park), became clearer to us. (Essentially, it boils down to this – There are the original cave paintings done many, many years ago. Then there are “engravings” that some disgruntled cowboys did in the last century on top of some of them. And there are also places that have been graffitied in more recent years. You can read more on the park’s History page.)
The off-white lines that look like a rib cage? That is the original cave painting. The name and date is the engraving done into the rock on top of the originals by a disgruntled Francisco, according to my understanding. Tsk, tsk, Francisco. You’re better than that.
While fascinating to see the names and dates, those are (again) meant to deface the original cave paintings by cowboys with attitude.
Look carefully. That is a cave painting, though honestly I have no idea of what. A snake maybe? A braid of gray hair?
This one I like. It’s a snake. Well, I don’t like snakes, but I like that I can see this one and discern what it is.
Close up of the HORSE cave painting that Mr. Wayland defaced in 1884. Bad form, MF.
Why We Love Hueco Tanks State Park
History. I’m a sucker for some history and Hueco Tanks has it in spades. Start in the Interpretive Center so you understand the history of the place before setting out for some first-hand experiences with yesteryear. Be patient. It may take a little longer to find yesteryear, but that makes the finding of it all the sweeter.
Rock Climbing/Bouldering. Yes, please! We had an amazing time bouldering the North “Mountain” on our visit. Definitely would be difficult for those with physical limitations (as in, I honestly can’t fathom how it would be accomplished) and personally, I would be a little hesitant to take kids up to the oasis because of the steep parts of the climb.
Staff. The Park Staff from the HQ to the Interpretive Center to Charlie the Intern were all experts in making our visit phenomenal.
Opportunity. While the North “Mountain” is accessible for self-guided tours, the East & West “Mountains” are accessible for those with guides. The guides at the time of our visit charged a very nominal fee per person and there is a link on the website for scheduling those in advance. Likewise, you can boulder til the cows come home on the North “Mountain,” but to rock climb you need the help of professionals, which the website also hooks you up with. Check out both of those opportunities here.
Must Do’s
Mandatory Video. Hello? It’s mandatory, so obviously you must do it. But it’s totally worth a few minutes of your time. Trust me.
Boulder. Be smart and use the chain rails in the steep areas. They are there. Find them and use them. I could have avoided my mini-meltdown had I done that. These rocks provide some excellent bouldering opportunities!
Explore. Make sure you spend time at Site 17 as well as the cave behind the Interpretive Center. Climb the ledge. Sit a spell. Take in the history you’re witnessing. See if you can discern a story or theme. It’s historically awesome!
Hike. The trails are basically flat, short walks. They are wide, well-marked, and easily traveled. But take an umbrella for shade because it gets hot as Hades in the full sun.
We’d love to hear about your experiences at Hueco Tanks State Park & Historic Site! Please share your experiences at this rockin’ State Park in the comments.
*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.
