activities – Texans Travel Life

The Man is a native Texan. He was born and raised in Houston. He relocated to Dallas in 1994. We have traveled I-45 between these two massive cities more times than I can count over the past twenty-five years, visiting and revisiting the people and places that shaped The Man’s past and forged his future. Embarrassingly, I don’t recall even once noticing that there was a State Park along the way, much less one as extraordinary as Huntsville State Park.

Being a native of Alabama the Beautiful, I adored the beautiful drive to and through the park’s colossal pine trees. That’s my happy place right there.

The Manling and I visited HSP in August 2018, unsure what to expect from a park that hadn’t managed to catch our attention over the course of two decades. What we discovered was an awesome park deep in the thick, towering pine trees of the Sam Houston National Forest. With a plethora of activities to choose and only six hours to spend, we quickly prioritized our line-up and began enjoying a leisurely summer afternoon around Lake Raven.

Knowing that The Manling’s primary love language is fishing, we headed for fishing spot numero uno – a pretty pier located between picturesque camping spots 154 and 157. While The Manling began reeling in fish after fish after fish, I spent some quality time with my iPhone attempting to capture the beauty of the place digitally.

Next, we explored the rest of the park from the inside of the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside), surprised to see so many tent campers enjoying the park deep in the throes of the hottest month of the year. August in Texas, dear reader, is akin to swimming in the lava pools of Mordor in Mount Doom. It’s hot as Hades. Did I mention the humidity? South Texas is famous for its heat AND its unbearable humidity. My mother-in-law, a native Houstonian, once told me that you have to have gills to breathe in Houston. It’s a thing. Look it up. And yet, there were families who had chosen to forsake the blessed comfort of air conditioning in order to make memories tent camping at HSP. I could drop the mic right there because that, amigo, says A LOT about the awesomeness of Huntsville State Park.

While exploring HSP from our sweet {air conditioned} seats in the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside), we discovered another fishing pier in the Coloneh Camping Area (between spots 78 and 82) and decided to pull over and drop a line in the water. Well, The Manling dropped a line. I grabbed my iPhone and continued my search for the perfect picture that would speak more than a thousand words to us both.

Here it is:

In the effort of full disclosure, I did not take that photo myself. Marsha did. Marsha was one of the many campers in the park that day, completely living la vida loca by camping in August with her hubs and three grandkiddos. Huntsville State Park, you see, is home to some of these bad boys and Marsha aimed to hook us with “front row seats” to see them up close, but not so up close that our own personal safety was at stake (a philosophy her dear husband did not share – story to follow, keep reading).

The Manling and I hunkered down on the pier, him with his rod and me with my iPhone, while we waited for one or more of the local ‘gators to make an appearance. Marsha gladly shared her experience (and the above photo) from the night before along with all the information she knew about alligators, including this little tidbit – the lines through the growth in the water hugging the shoreline and the pier were tracks made by the alligators as they entered and exited the water.

The Manling, Marsha’s husband, and two out of their three grandsons fished from the pier, catching hand-sized little fellas left and right. Marsha and I chatted. Time passed.

Marsha’s Man announced to the pier that he saw a ‘gator across the lake. Skeptical, The Manling and I shaded our eyes with our hands, squinted against the late afternoon glare off of the water, and slowly scanned the area that he indicated. We saw nothing. After surveying the area several times, I ventured to mention that I saw nothing, to which he responded, “That thing that looks like a log right there,” pointing exactly where I should look. Sure enough, we saw what looked like driftwood floating adjacent to the shoreline. Still somewhat skeptical that it was a bona fide alligator, The Manling and I took up “log watching” like it was an income-generating venture. And guess what. It WAS a bona fide alligator! (We were clued into this when a fish jumped out of the water and the “log” course-corrected to follow it. For about ten minutes.)

Assured by Marsha’s hubs that the thing would feed on the fish they were catching under the pier around 6pm, we not-so-patiently watched the clock, waiting for him to make his way across the lake to us so we could get a good look at him. By 6:30pm, he had disappeared altogether. Feeling slightly disappointed, we bid our new friends good-bye and headed to one last spot, a place that Marsha’s husband assured us he’d seen a 10-12 footer earlier in the day. After driving around for about fifteen minutes, unable to find the spot he had referenced, I unexpectedly got a text from Marsha that said the alligator had shown up! The Manling and I pointed the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside) back toward the pier and were rewarded with these up-close encounters with a 5-6 footer –

After the excitement wore off (for the alligator, not us), Marsha’s Man hopped on a scooter and escorted us to the place he’d seen the 10-12 footer earlier in the day. Stopped on the side of the road, Marsha’s Man crossed the road and ventured into the dense brush under the towering pine trees. Alone. Wearing flip flops.

After searching a few minutes, he found what he had been looking for… sitting utterly motionless in the water looking at him, only his head visible. And it was a ginormous head. Can you see it?

After several failed attempts to lure The Manling into the brush to get a closer look (This came out of my mouth: “That’s going to be a hard ‘no’ because I love him. And your family loves you, too, so I think it would probably be best for you to come back out here with us.”), he finally joined us back on the road. In his excitement, he commenced trying to convince us that approaching the alligator’s home – for we assume it was indeed it’s home since there was a camera box in the brush pointing at it – wouldn’t be too unsafe. He eventually understood the meaning of our “no’s” in all of its varying forms, bid us farewell, and we parted ways – him back to the pier, us back to I-45…and the safety of our own home.

Why We Love Huntsville State Park

Fishing. In our experience, it should be called “catching” at HSP. Go old school with worms.
Camping. Like I said, there were tent campers. In August. In 100+ degree weather. That speaks volumes.
Alligators. This could easily become classified as an obsession. Until this year, I had only seen alligators in the zoo or on the screen. It is insane to know they are around and that they aren’t out to get me. You know, like the snakes. Or the alligator on Lake Placid.
Towering Pines. Being a native of Alabama the Beautiful, ya girl loves her towering pines. This places is tall tree heaven. Bonus: Lots of shade, which lowers the oppressive summer temps.

Must-Do’s

Alligator Watch. Seriously! Go to the fishing pier. Take binoculars. Be patient. Better yet, ask Park Staff on your way in where the best place to spot an alligator is and follow their advice. (NOTE: The alligators are not tame. They are 100% wild. Keep your distance. Don’t be stupid.)
Fish. The fishing piers were perfect for catching hand-sized fish. We didn’t drop a line anywhere else, but I’m sure the Park Staff could give you good tips. Just ask them when you check into the park.
Camp. Beautiful, roomy camping spots. RV spots. Not your jam? How about a shelter with a/c? HSP has you covered, whatever your preference for camping.
Hike. Because of the allure of the alligators, we ran out of time to be able to hike. I imagine the trails would be gorgeous winding through such beautiful trees. Let me know if you have first-hand experience. I’d love to hear from you.

We’d love to hear about your experiences at Huntsville State Park! Please share your thoughts on this no-longer-overlooked state park in the comments.

*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.

We included Davis Mountains State Park on our trip to West Texas in July 2018 for the glorious fact that the nighttime temps during the summer months dip into the lower 60’s and the daytime highs are only in the 90’s, which is completely hospitable weather for tent camping in Texas during the summer!

This spot reminded me of Bonanza for some reason.

A scenic overlook en route to the McDonald Observatory a few miles away from DMSP.

Heading into the Davis Mountains on the quaint, two-lane SH-17 is nothing short of giddy bliss, dear reader. Mile upon mile of twisty, turny roads through mountain passes as you gently ascend and descend, climbing steadily higher toward more hospitable temps and ever-increasing scenic views that comprise the lovely – nay, awesome! – beauty that is the Davis Mountains. If one can form an emotional attachment to a location akin to love at first sight, then The Manling and I had that in spades as we drove through the Davis Mountains to the State Park that would be our home for the next 24 glorious hours.

We entered the HQ completely enraptured! I think I caught a glimpse of big red hearts in The Manling’s eyes as he registered us with the Park Staff and we secured a primo campsite right next to the creek (site 81 – secluded, shaded, mountain views, mere feet from the {dry} creek bed). Summer love happens fast, my friends, and we were head over heels before we’d even left the HQ.

After pitching our tents – and allow me to detour here to boast that Mama pitched her very own tent. For the first time. In her life. And set up her own cot. So, I was feeling pretty high on life as we sat on our camping chairs in the cool shade of our awesome camp site, sipping our refreshing H2O in full view of my colossal achievements and feasting on the gorgeous Davis Mountains scenery –

The Maning and I kicked back to discuss the array of wildlife that called the Davis Mountains home, during which I attempted to act all cool about the possibility of seeing snakes, mountain lions, and javalina.

– for a while before heading up the Scenic Drive in the Tiny Toyota Tardis (because the Yaris is bigger on the inside) to enjoy the various overlooks. We were eager to explore and gain a bird’s eye view of this majestic place we got to {temporarily} call home. By the time we were at the last overlook (where Scenic Drive dead ends at the park’s boundary), we heard the faint, but very distinct sound of a bugle playing a familiar tune. Intrigued, we decided to explore the tiny town that we saw at the foot of the peak. After all, we seldom have down time on our Texans Travel road trips to explore past the boundaries of the State Parks and on this particular trip, we did!

We explored much of Fort Davis on foot while we geocached the laid back, drive-through town, stopping at one place in particular –

This thrift store off the main road in town benefitted the same rescue agency that brought homeless dogs to the state park for a weekly hike.

– because another draw for us to DMSP was their “Hike with a Homeless Dog” the following morning. Dog lovers that we are, this activity listed on the park’s event page was irresistible to us.

Another stop we made was to this place, reputed among the locals as having the best salad bar, burgers, floats, and the like in the area.

Yes, we ate in a drugstore. And loved every minute of it!

Tummies nicely satisfied, we sat outside on the bench a spell to take in the irresistible charm of this precious small town, an idyllic setting for the next great American novel, before heading back home in time to catch the sun set in the bewitching Davis Mountains. (Ahhhh, that has such a nice ring to it, home in the Davis Mountains.)

On our first exploration of the peaks within the park, we discovered some rock sculptures lovingly left for our enjoyment by previous visitors. We are intrigued by these 3D art installations because on our trips to Llano, Texas, the month before, we discovered dozens and dozens of these in the city park. No explanations. Just the sculptures all over the place.

The two little beauties that greeted us on the first of many trips up to the first Scenic Overlook.

When we returned to the first Scenic Overlook a few hours later, prepped for a spectacular sunset, we discovered that something had demolished the sculptures in a “Leave No Trace” thoroughness that was a tad on the disheartening side. With nothing but time on our hands until the Big Show, we decided to make one of our own. I collected rocks of all sizes and shapes while The Manling got to work on our sculpture. Our labor of love provided interest to fellow park-goers as they trekked to the overlook to join us for sunset, some stopping to take photos of our masterpiece. It was all very gratifying. Before we knew it, it was time for the Big Show.

The sunset was so spectacular that we decided to catch it’s debut the next morning from a different spot, one perched atop the cool CCC structure that is designated on the Park Map as the middle overlook on Scenic Drive.

The Tiny Toyota Tardis enjoyed the view, too.

Afterward, we {reluctantly} broke camp – props to this Mom who broke down her own tent and cot for the first time, in the history of ever – ate a simple breakfast of trail bars with caffeinated peach tea, and then headed over to the Interpretive Center for the pièce de résistance – our much anticipated Hike with a Homeless Dog, a cooperative event offered at DMSP with Grand Companions in Fort Davis, a no-kill animal shelter all about giving dogs who are down on their luck second chances.

While we liked the hike with the pooches immensely, we loved the interaction with DMSP Interpreter, Ty, and the lovely intern, Erica. Not only did they share a wealth of information on an area that had already quickly captured our hearts, they shared some of themselves as I inadvertently grilled them on the life choices that led to their career decisions to work within the Texas State Parks. (You’re welcome, Manling.)

These two. We loved getting to know you, Ty and Erica. (FYI, they let us know they are not a couple.)

Why We ABSOLUTELY Love Davis Mountains State Park

Mountains. So stinkin’ pretty!! I loved every square inch that I saw. This place may be in my retirement future. Fingers crossed.
Hospitable Temps. Y’all, they are so cute in the Davis Mountains with their heat advisories because it’s in the 90’s. The 90’s! On our way home, we saw several signs that read 112 and 113. Just sayin’. And in the lower 60’s at night. The Davis Mountains make tent camping a possibility in Texas during the summer!
Hiking. Trails up and down and all around the mountain peaks. Plus, the park will throw in some homeless dogs for you to share the experience with! I call that #winning.
Camping. Did I mention the hospitable temps? The Manling and I actually got COLD during the night. In Texas. During July. This is a phenomenon not to be missed. Get yourself there asap.
Staff. Ty and Erica were a wealth of information on careers in the Texas State Park, which I think would suit The Manling to a T. Additionally, Ty happens to be the guy that started the Ambassador Program geared toward connecting The Manling’s age demographic to parks all around the great state of Texas. Love!
Sunrise/Sunset. These are not-to-be-missed moments in DMSP. Get yourself up to the peaks for both. You won’t miss the sleep once the Big Shows start. I promise.

Must Do’s

Camp. In addition to getting down into the 60’s overnight, we had a few unforgettable critters visit our campsite during the night – a fox hung around The Manling’s tent; we had quite a few skunks walking around our campsite during the night (which sounded like they walked on 2 feet, interestingly enough!); flashlights flashed their lights all night long (which I later learned belonged to campers hoping for a glimpse of a king snake because they come out at night).
Sunrise/Sunset. This is mandatory. No excuses.
Fort Davis Drugstore. Get the salad bar. Grab a burger. Top it off with a shake. This place is precious.
Park Activity. Check out the Events Page like we did and join the Park Staff on an unforgettable adventure!

We’d love to hear about your experiences at Davis Mountains State Park! Please share your thoughts on this love-at-first-sight State Park in the comments.

*In all natural areas, you are a guest. Educate yourself on what lives in the areas before your visits, always talk to the Park Rangers upon arrival and take precautions so that your experiences end as positively as ours.